It would be great to see an overview of the history of pipe making in each region. Please feel free to contribute information to the individual sections. Many of the pipe makers still need bios or additional information and pictures (just click on them, and then select the Edit tab to add any information you have). Feel free to add other pipe makers you’ve a particular interest in or knowledge of. Please let me know if you need any help managing the wiki: mailto:sethile.pipes@gmail.com

We use the term Broken Pipe coined by Tom Dunn, and also used by Jan Andersson, to denote Pipe Makers who have passed on. (Translation of the commonly used French expression “Casser sa pipe”)

[edit] Africa

[edit] Algeria

[edit] South Africa

[edit] Tanganyika

Fader’s M/L Made for Fader’s of Baltimore

[edit] Tanzania

[edit] America

[edit] Argentina

[edit] Colombia

Pipas Arguello MA Miguel Arguello

[edit] Brazil

[edit] Canada

Canadian pipe making is very individual. Some styles are very traditional, showing definite Old World roots, while others are heavily influenced by the Danish freehand movement.

[edit] Chile

Herrera – Leonardo Herrera

Pipes JAS – Juan Antonio Salhus

Pipas Ovejanegra – Carlos Toro Urrutia

[edit] Mexico

Pipas de Cochera – Roberto González González

Pipas Elo – Elo Rojas

[edit] United States

• American Pipe Brands & Makers A – B
• American Pipe Brands & Makers C – D
• American Pipe Brands & Makers E – F
• American Pipe Brands & Makers G – H
• American Pipe Brands & Makers I – K
• American Pipe Brands & Makers L – M
• American Pipe Brands & Makers N – Q
• American Pipe Brands & Makers R – S
• American Pipe Brands & Makers T – V
• American Pipe Brands & Makers W – Z

American pipe making is heavily influenced by the European schools, although Asian aesthetics, at least as they play out in pipes, have also become a notable influence. In particular, the Italian, English, and French schools, with their traditional shapes, have formed the basis for the work of many American pipe makers who have pored over collections of old Dunhills, Barlings, GBDs, Costellos, Savinelli’s, etc. Many of these shapes were well established by the 1920s. Others are heavily influenced by the makers of Danish high grade pipes, who have likewise been influenced by their mentors, the fathers of the Danish freehand movement of the 1950′s and ’60s.

“Go West” is a fascinating look at high grade American pipe makers from across the pond. Written By: Erwin Van Hove and originally published in the French magazine, Pipe Mag.

Among other interesting developments in US pipe making has been Sandblasting. Fred Hanna wrote an interesting article for The Pipe Collector called, The Best Sandblasted Pipes are Being Made By Americans, where he writes, “Now and then, someone will point to a particular country, such as Denmark or Italy, and remark upon the quality of their pipe makers as a group. This may be in terms of design, finish, mouthpieces, engineering, or what have you. Let’s add another such assessment. I have been watching the quality of sandblasting by Americans for the last couple of years, and I don’t think there can be any doubt about it. The best sandblasted pipes OVERALL are now coming out of the USA.”

Suffice it to say that a new generation of American pipe makers have emerged. Many have made the trek to high grade pipe mecca to study with the master carvers. They have brought back an entire school of technique and aesthetic and made it their own. Others combine the traditional and freehand styles in a unique combination. Regardless of their influences, many of these American pipe makers are pursuing pipe making with a tremendous passion and energy, and an individual spirit, not unlike the one that molded the country.

[edit] Uruguay

Pedro Ferrizzo

Pipas Elfo – Helios Guidotti

[edit] Europe

[edit] Albania

Tomori

[edit] Austria

[edit] Belgium

[edit] Bulgaria

[edit] Croatia

Davorin

Dotter – Domagoj Telišman

tNd tobacco pipes – Daniel Mustran

[edit] Cyprus

Kokkinos – Yiannos Kokkinos Custom Pipes

[edit] Czech Republic

[edit] Denmark

• Danish Pipe Brands & Makers A – D
• Danish Pipe Brands & Makers E – H
• Danish Pipe Brands & Makers I – L
• Danish Pipe Brands & Makers M – Q
• Danish Pipe Brands & Makers R – T
• Danish Pipe Brands & Makers U – Z

We highly recommend the following article on the history of Danish pipe making by Jakob Groth. More Pipe maker articles coming soon to this section. Those in red still need articles. Please dive in if you’d like to help. Very thankfully there exists an excellent site dedicated to Scandinavian pipe makers. We highly recommend danishpipemakers.com

[edit] France

• French Pipe Brands & Makers A – K
• French Pipe Brands & Makers L – Z

|Elie||Elie’s also living in Belgium.

[edit] Germany

• German Pipe Brands & Makers A – D
• German Pipe Brands & Makers E – H
• German Pipe Brands & Makers I – L
• German Pipe Brands & Makers M – Q
• German Pipe Brands & Makers R – T
• German Pipe Brands & Makers U – Z

More pipe maker articles coming soon. There exists an excellent site dedicated to German pipe makers. We highly recommend German Pipemakers

[edit] Great Britain

• British Pipe Brands & Makers A – D
• British Pipe Brands & Makers E – H
• British Pipe Brands & Makers I – L
• British Pipe Brands & Makers M – Q
• British Pipe Brands & Makers R – T
• British Pipe Brands & Makers U – Z

[edit] Greece

[edit] Hungary

[edit] Ireland

[edit] Italy

• Italian Pipe Brands & Makers A – C
• Italian Pipe Brands & Makers D – F
• Italian Pipe Brands & Makers G – J
• Italian Pipe Brands & Makers K – L
• Italian Pipe Brands & Makers M – P
• Italian Pipe Brands & Makers R – S
• Italian Pipe Brands & Makers T – Z

• See A Short History of The Italian Handmade Pipe, by R.D.Field for an interesting article on the Castello, Caminetto, and Ascorti connection.
• See Thoughts on Italian Pipes – Sykes Wilford’s musings on Italian pipe design.
• Pipe making courses by Bertram Safferling. For info see Safferling

[edit] Latvia

Senatorov (Sergei Senatorov Fjodorovic)

[edit] Malta

Briar Pipeworks Ltd. (Marsa / Malta)

[edit] Netherlands

[edit] Norway

[edit] Poland

[edit] Portugal

[edit] Romania

[edit] Russia

[edit] Slovenia

Lobnik – Gregor Lobnik

[edit] Spain

[edit] Sweden

Although much deserved credit has been given to Danish pipemakers & the “Danish Freehand” style, a lot of credit has to go to a handful of brilliant and innovative Swedish pipemakers, not the least of whom were Sixten Ivarsson & Bo Nordh (may they smoke & rest in peace).

More pipe maker articles coming soon. Very thankfully there exists an excellent site dedicated to Swedish pipe makers. We highly recommend Svenska Pipklubben (Swedish Pipe Club) and extend many thanks to Jan Andersson, club secretary (and pipe smoker, of course).

[edit] Switzerland

We urgently need Helvetians (Swiss) to contribute info for the above pipemakers.

[edit] Ukraine

[edit] Middle and Far East

[edit] China

[edit] Israel

[edit] Japan

[edit] Lebanon

[edit] New Zealand

[edit] Turkey

[edit] Pipe Marks & Logos

This area is still under construction, so please wear a hard hat & your favourite smoking jacket.

Due to the huge number of Pipe Makers, we hereby provide links to a number of sites with Marks & Logos:

Logos & markings

Pipemakers

Comunidad de la Pipa

Amigos dos Cachimbo

Fujipub

Aldo Velani – Italy – Gold & Silver Circle:

Altinok Meerschaum – Turkey – Vivaldi font “A” in a black circle:

Butz Choquin – France – BC Inside a circle:

Peterson – Ireland – White script “P” stamped on stem:

Salvatella – Stylised White “S” stamped on stem:

Savinelli – Italy – “S” Inside a shield surmounted by 2 pipes, stamped on stem & shank:

Stanwell – Denmark – “S” surmounted by a Crown stamped on stem:
Storient BLOCK Meerschaum – Turkey – Storient “STORIENT” in a blue sticker

Vuillard – France – Stylised White “V” stamped on stem:

Elie – Belgium/Portugal – Stylised Gold “E” inset into stem: ; Pipe Stamp:

Edward CZERNY – AUSTRIA – My farther´s and mine…:

Yiannos Kokkinos – Cyprus –

By Richard S. Newcombe, 1996 (Edited for content)

Ivarsson pipes were available in the United States in the 1960s and 70s through Iwan Ries and Co. in Chicago. Once or twice each year Stan Levy, the store’s owner, visited Sixten and Lars Ivarsson in Copenhagen and bought a handful of pipes that he sold in America.

I met the 90-year-old Stan at the Chicago Pipe Club show last spring, and I asked him why his store no longer sold Ivarsson pipes. He said the Japanese started offering even higher prices and he just couldn’t compete.

Since then, Ivarsson pipes have simply not been available to American collectors. Of course, there is always the occasional Ivarsson pipe that might pop up at a pipe show or a garage sale, but finding them has been like looking for a needle in a haystack. Two American collectors have owned several dozen over the years: Rob Cooper, who lives in the Philadelphia area, and Ron Colter, who lives in the Washington, D.C. area. There may be others as well, but they are all the exception.

Ivarsson pipes have been largely unknown to American collectors. For example, there is hardly a mention of Ivarsson in Richard Carleton Hacker’s otherwise excellent work, The Ultimate Pipe Book. There is not a single mention of Ivarsson in The Pipe Smokers Ephemeris: Book I, which covers the subject of pipes from the years 1964 – 79. Also — neither book gives credit to Jess Chonowitsch, considered by Nikos Levin and many other collectors to be the greatest pipe maker in the world today.

Image Courtesy of Tabak-Laedeli

But in Europe, the story is totally different. The Illustrated History of the Pipe, which was written by Alexis Liebaert and Alain Maya of France, gives the Ivarssons the credit they deserve. Sixten is called the greatest pipe maker of the 20th century. And as good as Sixten was, many collectors believe that the only pipe makers to equal or even surpass his skill are Jess Chonowitsch, Bo Nordh and Sixten’s son, Lars. Other collectors believe the S. Bang pipes are the best in the world. My own opinion is that all four are fantastic, and calling one better than another is highly subjective.

Lars makes about 70 pipes per year, and he sells them for between $1,000 and $2,000 each — some for a little less and a few for a lot more.

Lars is 51 (in 1996 – red.), and he started making pipes 40 years ago. As a child, he liked to hang around his father’s workshop. “Once I turned 12, my allowance was cut off,” he said. “I had to earn the money I got by helping with the pipes.”

Lars remembers when Bo Nordh (now deceased – ed.), an engineering student from Sweden, first visited Sixten and Lars in Copenhagen to study their pipe making techniques. They are still good friends today. He also remembers when Jess Chonowitsch worked in the Ivarsson workshop. The pipes are stamped with a circle that reads, “An Ivarsson Product.” Many also include the year and the number made that year. For instance, 24/1970 stands for the 24th pipe made in 1970. Lars’ pipes have an “L” stamped on them, while Sixten’s have a sunshine.

Lars said that besides Sixten, he and Jess were the only pipe makers allowed to make pipes that were stamped “An Ivarsson Product.” He remembers being in his 20′s when the three pipe makers — Sixten, Lars and Jess — would work all day making pipes at the workshop in downtown Copenhagen. They had a storefront window, and many of the locals would wave or stop by for a chat.

Image Courtesy of Tabak-Laedeli

I first met Lars in Copenhagen in August 1995. He told me that he had never been to the United States, even though he had traveled all over the world many times. His English was easy to understand. “I had to learn English early in order to negotiate on behalf of my father,” he said.

So I invited Lars to stay at my house in Los Angeles if he ever decided to visit America. You can imagine my excitement, then, 11 months later when I met Lars at L.A.’s airport. He had traveled nearly 24 hours and was eager for a pipe, but otherwise in good shape.

Lars, Dayton Matlock, editor and publisher of Pipes and Tobacco, and I visited Jim Benjamin in San Diego. Jim is an expert at restoring old pipes, and he thoroughly cleaned the inside of one of Lars’ pipes.

When we were in Jim Benjamin’s workshop I asked Lars if he would mind smoothing out the plateau top of a large free hand pipe that had been made by another pipe maker. It was amazing to watch him work, first with a sanding wheel and then with one of his handmade knives. Jim Benjamin said he’d be afraid to work with a knife. He was speaking for Dayton and me as well. But Lars took the knife to his beard, cupped his hand under his beard, and shaved off a handful of whiskers. “As long as the knife is sharp,” he said, “there will be no problem.”

I asked him about the age of briar, and Lars said there is a lot of misinformation on the subject. He said that most of the time he can tell the age of the briar by looking at a pipe. The range seems to be anywhere from five years to — at the outside — 50 years. He said the myth of hundred-year-old briar is just that — a myth. He said that some of the wood he works with has been stored since the 1950s, but he said that’s the exception. Most of the briarwood that he uses has been stored for between one and five years. As long as it is good briar, and thoroughly dry, it does not have to be so old to have good smoking qualities. In fact, Lars said, if the briarwood is too old it becomes difficult to work with.

“We also use the highest quality vulcanite, which we buy from Germany. All of our mouthpieces are hand-cut. As important as the materials are, however, the way the pipe is made is most important. A good pipe is 90 percent physics, 5 percent materials and 5 percent magic.”

Image Courtesy of Tabak-Laedeli

The “magic” that Lars referred to is a reflection of the pipe maker’s passion, artistry and intuitive feel for how a particular pipe should be made. A great pipe is one that draws smoothly and stays lit easily and does not require a lot of tinkering, poking, tamping and relighting.

Lars offered insights into how briar colors after repeated smoking. I told him my favorite was briar that turned a dark reddish-brown over time. He said that wood only turns red because of an initial stain of red by the pipe maker. The wood itself darkens into brown or a grayish brown color, but if the pipe were given an early stain that included some red in it, the pipe will look plum-colored over time. Without that red stain, however, it won’t.

He does all his own sandblasting at home in a furnace he bought just for that purpose.

Lars has always preferred to live and work in the country. In fact, he and his wife recently purchased a new home on the sea that is 100 kilometers from downtown Copenhagen. He says the house needs a lot of work, which he will do himself. He plans to set up his pipe making workshop adjacent to the house. “I’m just a country boy,” he likes to say.

Back at my house I showed Lars and Jess several of the pipes in my collection that looked beautiful but did not smoke well. In each case, they examined the pipe in the same way that you might expect Sherlock Holmes to examine an important piece of evidence. First they turned it this way, then that way — with the mouthpiece and then without the mouthpiece. They never hesitated to blow through the pipe to listen to how the air flow sounded. “We need to avoid having the mouthpiece sound like a clarinet,” Lars said at one point. In each case, they showed me the flaw.

Nanna is Lars’ youngest of two daughters and the one person he regards as his logical successor in the future. She is 22 and already an experienced pipe maker. Nanna was recently accepted at a design school that rejected 488 of the 500 students who applied. She will continue making pipes under her father’s guidance while studying design. She told me that she wants to use her study of design to create new shapes for pipes.

Image Courtesy of Tabak-Laedeli

It is remarkable how many designs are considered commonplace today but were revolutionary at the time that Sixten or Lars or Jess introduced them. For instance, I mentioned to Lars that the egg is one of my favorite shapes. I asked if the Ivarssons had anything to do with it. “Yes,” he replied. “My father created it.”

During the 40 years in which he has made pipes, Lars has stamped a fish on 35 of them, and Jess has stamped a bird on approximately the same number. The fish and the bird are reserved for those pipes that are absolutely perfect in every respect.

When we were at the outdoor banquet dinner of the West Coast Pipe and Cigar Expo, I was smoking a Sixten Ivarsson pipe made in 1970. Shortly before dinner was served, I put the pipe down on the table and excused myself. I walked 50 or so yards to get to the lobby, asked directions to the men’s room, went to the bathroom and washed my hands, then found the telephones and made two quick phone calls. I walked the 50 yards back to the table and sat down at my place. I was gone at least five minutes and perhaps as many as 10. I picked up the Ivarsson pipe I had been smoking, put it in my mouth and puffed. Unbelievably, it was still lit! I showed this to Lars and Jess, and Lars made a joke that it was a good way to waste tobacco. In truth, hardly any tobacco had burned — just enough to allow the pipe to smolder. I told him this was incredible. I had never seen anything like it. Still not wanting to take any credit, they both said the outdoor breeze contributed to the pipe staying lit. No doubt, I said, but not for five to 10 minutes. Determined, I asked once more, “How can you explain this?”

Lars looked serious at first and then smiled as he answered, “I guess it stayed lit because of that final 5 percent — what Sixten calls magic. It’s the magic of knowing how to make the perfect pipe.”

[edit] Books (in print)

Bo Nordh – Pipemaker. A story about a man and his work by Jan Andersson.

Written in English. Hardcover: 130 pages with 125 pictures showing more than 100 pipes in color. Published in 2008 by Jans Bild & Text, Sweden. Available in the U.S. from Ben Rapaport (ben70grey@comcast.net) Interested in other parts of the world may contact the author (jan.pipa@tele2.se) for more information.

PIPES, Artisans and trademarks, by José Manuel Lopes

(not available on Amazon, check your favorite B&M or on-line tobacconist). Language: English; Hardcover: 264 Pages, First English Edition 2005; Translation by Mick Greer; Forward by Ben Rapaport; Introductory Text by Gregory Pease. Originally titled “Cachimbos” and written in Portuguese, this book chronicles nearly every brand made as of 2005, with informative descriptions and excellent pictures. Currently considered the most complete book covering the numerous makers of tobacco pipes.

The Pipe Companion: A Connoisseur’s Guide, by David Wright

Available new and used on Amazon Hardcover: 208 pages; Publisher: Running Press Book Publishers (October 2000); Language: English; ISBN-10: 0762403233; ISBN-13: 978-0762403233. Though far from exhaustive, this is a wonderful book with excellent pictures. The makers covered are covered more thoroughly than in José Manuel Lopes’ book.

In Search of Pipe Dreams, by Rick Newcombe

Available new and used on Amazon or direct from the author (brochure) Paperback: 304 pages; Publisher: Sumner Books (April 1, 2006); Language: English; ISBN-10: 0966623916; ISBN-13: 978-0966623918. This book is an excellent read. One of my favorites. Rick loves pipes and pipe makers and is an excellent writer. The pictures are informative.

Rare Smoke: The Ultimate Guide to Pipe Collecting, by Richard Carleton Hacker

Available new and used on Amazon Hardcover: 265 pages, Publisher: Rick Hacker (December 1, 1999), Language: English, ISBN-10: 0931253101, ISBN-13: 978-0931253102. Very informative book on collecting, especially certain makes and eras. It is far from exhaustive. The pictures are informative (but not exciting). An enjoyable read, a good reference, and well worth owning.

Pipesmoking: A 21st Century Guide, by Richard Carleton Hacker

Available new and used on Amazon Paperback: 168 pages, Publisher: Autumngold Publishing; First Edition, Second Printing edition (August 10, 2006), Language: English, ISBN-10: 0931253152, ISBN-13: 978-0931253157.

Collectible Pipes, by Jean Rebeyrolles

Available new and used on Amazon Paperback: 384 pages, Publisher: Flammarion (September 21, 2002), Language: English, ISBN-10: 2080108840, ISBN-13: 978-2080108845.

A Complete Guide to Collecting Antique Pipes, by Rapaport, Benjamin. Available from the author at: Antiquarian Tobacciana, 9831 Highland Glen Place, Colorado Springs, Colorado, 80920, USA. E-mail: mailto:ben70gray@comcast.net and available new and used at Amazon

Hard cover with dust jacket (1979). Paperback: 256 pages; Publisher: Schiffer Publishing; Revised edition (May 1998); Language: English; ISBN-10: 0764305964; ISBN-13: 978-0764305962.

Collecting Antique Meerschaums: Miniature to Majestic Sculpture (1999), by Ben Rapaport. Available from the author at: Antiquarian Tobacciana, 9831 Highland Glen Place, Colorado Springs, Colorado, 80920, USA. E-mail: mailto:ben70gray@comcast.net Available new and used at Amazon Hardcover: 176 pages; Publisher: Schiffer Publishing (March 1999); Language: English; ISBN-10: 0764307657; ISBN-13: 978-0764307652.

The Global Guide to Tobacco Literature” (1989) by Ben Rapaport. Description: Bibliography of books, organized by topical area and alphabet in English, French, German, Italian, and other languages, approx 6,000 entries. Privately published, USA. Library of Congress catalog number 90-91868, available from the author at: Antiquarian Tobacciana, 9831 Highland Glen Place, Colorado Springs, Colorado, 80920, USA. E-mail: mailto:ben70gray@comcast.net

Back From The Ashes: Uncovering the Lost History Of G. L. Hunt and the Falcon Pipe, by K. A. Worth. WINNER ~ 2008 Illinois Historical Society Book Award. (June 2007) Softbound; 185 Pages, Includes 70 B&W Illustrations. First Electronic Edition January 2012(Updated, Expanded) includes 88 Illustrations – 58 Color, 30 B&W. Both versions with many vintage advertisements and catalog sheets shown. Late Chicago manufacturer G. L. Hunt first became exclusive Falcon distributor in 1948, then took over manufacture in 1956. In this work, author Kathy A. Worth, granddaughter of Mr. Hunt, chronicles the development of the world-famous Falcon pipe – and in tribute to her late grandfather – treats us to a fascinating profile of the great American entrepreneur.

eBook Obtainable from Amazon; See website for reviews from Mr. Bill Unger, Pijpenkabinet, and others. eBook also available at Amazon U.K.; Amazon Spain;Amazon Germany;Amazon France and Amazon Italy. Limited Number of Print Editions Available Direct From The Author…Mailing Address: K. A. Worth, PO Box 485, Grayslake, IL 60030.

Pimo’s Guide to Pipe-Crafting at Home

112 pages, 190 illustrations, Paperback Available from Pimo; E-mail: mailto:pimo@vermontel.net. Address: Butternut Lane, PO Box 2043. Manchester Center, VT 05255. Phone: 802-362-3371

The Dunhill Briar Pipe – ‘the patent years and after’ by John C. Loring: The first published book devoted to the Dunhill pipe. It is alternatively a dating guide, a history of the Dunhill pipe and a study of the Dunhill pipe generally. Publication date: June 1998. Price: US$30 including worldwide shipping. Available from the author’s son at: Michael D. Loring. Voice: (773) 935 – 3492, 700 West Irving Park, Suite A-1, Chicago, Illinois 60613. Email, website

The History of the Calabash Pipe, by Gary B. Schrier (2006): The book is softbound, lavishly photographed – 335 photos; 100 in color. Available from the author: website

Secrets of Enjoyable Pipe Smoking, by Mark Beale, MD: A paperback book that features chapters on selecting, cleaning, and collecting pipes, choosing tobacco, and health tips. “It seems there were pamphlets about pipes, and then expensive hardcover books,” comments the author, a 36-year old psychiatrist and third-generation pipe smoker. “I wanted to create something in between – a concise but detailed book for someone just discovering the pipe pastime.” The self-published book sells for $9.95, plus $3 shipping. Call (843) 856-3146.

THE CUSTOM-BILT PIPE STORY, by William E. Unger, Jr., Ph.D Available from the author (order from). 263 pages, plastic spiral bound, 87 illustrations: pipe photographs and reproductions of rare ads and catalogs. Chapter One: The Companies; Chapter Two: The People; Chapter Three: The Pipes; A carefully researched history of these increasingly collectible pipes, from their beginning, with Tracy Mincer in 1929, to their last manufacture in 1998. A guide to the names and distinguishing features of the many different variations. Reviews by Richard Esserman, and Tony Soderman.

[edit] Books (out of print)

The Ultimate Pipe Book, by Richard Carleton Hacker:

Available used on Amazon Hardcover: 305 pages; Publisher: Autumngold Pub.; 2nd edition (January 1984)Language: English; ISBN-10: 0931253004; ISBN-13: 978-0931253003. Check availability with Antiquarian Tobacciana, 9831 Highland Glen Place, Colorado Springs, Colorado, 80920, USA. E-mail: mailto:ben70gray@comcast.net

The Pipe Book, by Alfred Dunhill:

Available used on Amazon in paperback. The First edition was published in 1924. The first reprint, as a hardback book, was published in 1969. This particular reprint and all others since that time (and there have been several) do not contain the 28 black & white and color plates that are found in the 1924 edition; these are pipes that are not now line drawings in any reprint. Paperback: 280 pages; Publisher: The Lyons Press; First edition edition (November 1, 2002); Language: English; ISBN-10: 1585746533; ISBN-13: 978-1585746538. Hardback Hardcover: 306 pages; Publisher: The Lyons Press; 1.00 edition (May 1, 1999); Language: English; ISBN-10: 1558217762; ISBN-13: 978-1558217768. Also available at Antiquarian Tobacciana, 9831 Highland Glen Place, Colorado Springs, Colorado, 80920, USA. E-mail: mailto:ben70gray@comcast.net

The Pipe, by Georges Herment:

“A serious yet diverting treatise on the history of the pipes and all its appurtenances, as well as a factual withal philosophical discussion of the pleasurable art of selecting pipes, smoking, and caring for them”. Translated by Arthur L. Hayward. Foreword by Wally Frank, Illustrated by George Poole and Paul Jensen. 1954 and 1955. First Paperback 1963, Simon and Schuster. Check availability at Antiquarian Tobacciana, 9831 Highland Glen Place, Colorado Springs, Colorado, 80920, USA. E-mail: mailto:ben70gray@comcast.net

The Book of Pipes and Tobacco by Carl Ehwa, Jr

Random House Inc., New York, NY, USA 1974 Available used on amazon Hardcover: 239 pages, Publisher: Random House (1973), Language: English, ISBN-10: 0394470001, ISBN-13: 978-0394470009. Check availability at Antiquarian Tobacciana, 9831 Highland Glen Place, Colorado Springs, Colorado, 80920, USA. E-mail: mailto:ben70gray@comcast.net

The Illustrated History of the Pipe (The Pleasures of Life), by Alexis Liebert, Alain Maya

Fabulously illustrated large format book. Available used on amazon Hardcover: 220 pages, Publisher: Harold Starke Publishers (September 26, 1994), ISBN-10: 1872457207, ISBN-13: 978-1872457208. Check availability at Antiquarian Tobacciana, 9831 Highland Glen Place, Colorado Springs, Colorado, 80920, USA. E-mail: mailto:ben70gray@comcast.net

The Perfect Pipe, by H. Paul Jeffers

Available used at Amazon Hardcover: 192 pages; Publisher: Burford Books (December 25, 1998); Language: English; ISBN-10: 1580800653; ISBN-13: 978-1580800655. Check availability at Antiquarian Tobacciana, 9831 Highland Glen Place, Colorado Springs, Colorado, 80920, USA. E-mail: mailto:ben70gray@comcast.net

Pipe, by Robin Crole

Available used at Amazon Hardcover: 144 pages; Publisher: Prima Lifestyles (October 27, 1999); Language: English; ISBN-10: 0761515070; ISBN-13: 978-0761515074. Check availability at Antiquarian Tobacciana, 9831 Highland Glen Place, Colorado Springs, Colorado, 80920, USA. E-mail: mailto:ben70gray@comcast.net

Carl Weber’s The Pleasures of Pipe Smoking, by Carl Weber

Available used at Amazon. Hardcover; Publisher: Ridge Press (1965); ASIN: B000IANCXY. Check availability at Antiquarian Tobacciana, 9831 Highland Glen Place, Colorado Soprings, Colorado, 80920, USA. E-mail: mailto:ben70gray@comcast.net

Weber’s Guide to Pipes & Pipe Smoking , by Carl Weber Available Used at Amazon Paperback; Publisher: Simon & Schuster (Paper) (June 1976); ISBN-10: 0346122392; ISBN-13: 978-0346122390. Check availability at Antiquarian Tobacciana, 9831 Highland Glen Place, Colorado Springs, Colorado, 80920, USA. E-mail: mailto:ben70gray@comcast.net

Museum of Tobacco Art and History Guide Book,” by Ben Rapaport (1996). Exquisitely photographed objects in full color once exhibited in the only U.S. museum devoted to antiquarian tobacciana located in Nashville, Tennessee. Six thousand copies (2,000 hard cover w/dust jacket and 4,000 soft cover) were printed by the best printing house in the USA, RR Donnelley & Sons, Co. The book was released as a not-for-commercial-sale book. Now out-of-print. A limited quantity of the hard cover version is available from the author at: Antiquarian Tobacciana, 9831 Highland Glen Place, Colorado Springs, Colorado, 80920, USA. E-mail: mailto:ben70gray@comcast.net

[edit] Publications (in print)

Pipes & Tobacco Magazine(published since Winter 1996)

Pipes & Tobacco Magazine: A quarterly magazine with articles about pipes, pipe manufacturing, custom pipes, and tobaccos. Pipes and Tobaccos, 5808 Faringdon Place ~ Suite 200, Raleigh, NC 27609-3930, USA, Phone: (919) 872-5040, Fax: (919) 876-6531

The Pipe Collector:

The Newsletter of the North American Society of Pipe Collectors NASPC: North American Society of Pipe Collectors, P.O. Box 9642, Columbus, Ohio 43209-9642

Smokeshop Magazine

Smokeshop Magazine: Lockwood Trade Journal Co., Inc., 130 West 42nd Street, Suite 1050, New York, NY 10036, (212) 391-2060, Fax: (212) 827-0945, Email: mailto:ssmagazine@aol.com

SMOKE Magazine

Looks like it used to have some good articles on pipes. If anyone knows the current status on pipe coverage, please update this. It is quite a “hip” publication. In addition to coverage of cigars, it has plenty of articles on things like cars, wines, liquor, clothes, music, culture and other hedonistic pursuits as well. Lockwood Publications, 135 West 41st. St., Suite 1050, NY, NY 10036; (212) 391-2060, mailto:cigarbar@aol.com website

Tobacconist Magazine

Tobacconist Magazine: Official publication of the Retail Tobacco Dealers’ Association (RTDA). Address: 5808 Faringdon Place ~ Suite 200, Raleigh, NC 27609-3930 USA, Phone: (919) 872-5040, Fax: (919) 876-6531

[edit] Publications (out of print)

The Pipe Smokers Ephemeris, Last Issue

The Pipe Smokers Ephemeris (TPSE), US ISSN 0032-0161: Edited and Published by late great Tom Dunnfor 41 years (1964 – Winter-Spring 2005). “The Ephemeris was a limited edition, irregular quarterly for pipe smokers and anyone else who was interested in its contents” and sent to “Coterians” around the World. Tom became a “broken pipe” in December 2005. He had hopes to release yet another issue, and was working away on it, but his health was deteriorating rapidly, and that next issue never materialized.

Editor’s note: I regret that I was not aware of the Ephemeris, or The Universal Coterie of Pipe Smokers until recently. I just bought my first and only copy of the Ephemeris (the last issue, Winter – Spring, 2005) from Hermit Tobacco at the MAPS show in Milwaukee. I hope to buy more editions on the used market as I can find and afford them. The last issue has 116 pages of excellent reading. I’m very envious of long time Coterians, especially those who knew Tom personally, or enjoyed regular correspondence with him.

It has recently come to light that one of Tom’s last wishes was that the Ephemeris not be revived in any form. Pipedia certainly honors that request. However, if any of the contributors to the Ephemeris would like to re-publish their individual contributions or memories of Tom here, that would be most welcome. SEThile (Pipedia SYSOP).

PipeSmoke Magazine, Last Issue

PipeSmoke Magazine: Released as an insert in SMOKE Magazine (quarterly) from Summer 1997 through Winter 1998/1999 (7 issues). Later issues were online. Keys Technologies (need more information). They still have a website up, but it looks like the last issue was summer 1999: Pipesmoke Website

Pipe Friendly Magazine: J. Galloway Company (need information): Pipe Friendly was dedicated to the “preservation and promotion of the pipe in whatever form.” Edited by OoOPS member Joel Farr, this publication was less flashy than some of the others. However, it was full of useful information for smokers and collectors, with articles written by well-known pipe collectors and retailers. Detailed articles about pipe brands appeared in every issue. So did no-holds-barred discussions of pipe smoking/collecting issues. Sometimes, this produced controversy, but PF made up in guts what it may have lacked in glitz. Devotion to the pipe hobby came through in every page of every issue.[1]

Pipe The Worldwide Pipe Smoker’s Magazine, Published in the Netherlands in several languages as a semi-annual by subscription. First Semester 1995 through Second Semester 2001 (14 issues)

“Pipe Smokers Review,” a monthly out of Des Plaines, IL from May 1952 (Vol. 1, No. 1) through August 1952 (Vol. 1, No. 4)

“Pipe Smoker,” a quarterly magazine that debuted in Spring 1983 and ran through Spring 1988; thereafter, it became a quarterly tabloid, “Pipe Smoker and Tobacciana Trader,” until its last issue, July/August/September 1989.

“Pipe Lovers,” monthly magazine from January 1946 through April 1950 circulated from Long Beach, CA. The rights of this magazine were sold to Leon Cutler, New York, who changed the name to “The American Smoker.” This smaller-format monthly magazine ran from May 1950 through January 1951.

A&M Gazette Cover Logo, Courtesy Neil Murray

Agricultural and Mechanical Gazette Bimonthly tabloid published privately by Neil Murray that began in November 1988 and lasted until 1997 (Vol. 9, Issue 1). Neil has scanned several issues and very kindly offered them to Pipedia. Volume 1 Issue 1, Volume 1 Issue 4, Volume 1 Issue 5, Volume 3 Issue 2, Volume 3 Issue 3, Volume 3 Issue 4, Volume 4 Issue 1, Volume 4 Issue 2, Volume 4 Issue 3, Volume 4 Issue 4, Volume 4 Issue 5, Volume 5 Issue 1, Volume 5 Issue 2, Volume 5 Issue 3, Volume 5 Issue 4, Volume 5 Issue 5 Volume 6 Issue 2, Volume 6 Issue 3, Volume 6 Issue 4, Volume 6 Issue 5, Volume 7 Issue 2, Volume 7 Issue 3, Volume 7 Issue 4, Volume 7 Issue 5, Volume 8 Issue 1, Volume 8 Issue 2,Volume 8 Issue 3, Volume 8 Issue 4, Volume 8 Issue 5, Volume 9 Issue 1
The Compleat Smoker: a quarterly, Vol. 1, Number 1, Summer 1990 through Vol. 2, No. 1, Fall/Holiday 1991 (5 issues)

Pijprokersmagazine: Richard Thiron, BELGIUM (a tabloid for clay tobacco pipe collectors)

Max Ridley published a recent journal on the physiological effect of pipe smoking in the under-thirty age group. Findings suggest that libido can be increased upto twenty percent upon regular piping although sensitivity to common household allergens can be twice increased. Number ninety-six of the five-hundred subjects, a pipe entrepreneur named Joseph Nicholas Ebb found smoking five chambers a day, manifested an increased love for cheese. One other bizarre side effect was that of increased sexual deviance.

The following articles by Ben Rapaport are now available here in PDF:

• Recommended Reading An Instructional Note to the Pipe Smoker and Pipe Collector, by Ben Rapaport (Fall 2007)
• An Historical Review of Reviews: Chronicling A Century of Magazines for the Pipe-Smoking Maven, by Ben Rapaport
• Museums With Interest In Tobacco, Compiled by Ben Rapaport (Fall 2006)

[edit] Forums & Newsgroups

• AMERICA HISPANA Y ESPAÑA
  • Consejo de Pipa Clubs (Tiene como objetivo promover el intercambio de información y actividades entre los Pipa Clubs hispanoparlantes – Spanish speaking Pipe Clubs )
• AMERICA LATINA
  • FLAPC (Fraternidad Latinoamericana de Pipa Clubes)
• ARGENTINA
  • Formosa Pipa Club (El primer foro en español dedicado a la pipa y el tabaco)
• AUSTRALIA
  • Australian Pipe Smokers Group
• CHINA
  • Yan Bo Zhi Shuang Ge (The biggest pipe distributor in China)
  • Pipe Village (The portal for worldwide Chinese pipe smokers, dealers and makers, since 2001)
• CROATIA
  • Dim lule forum (first Croatian forum about pipes, pipe tobaccos and pipe makers)
  • Piperson forum (Croatian group about pipes, pipe makers, and tobaccos)
• FRANCE
  • Groupe Fumeurs de Pipe (The first French group about pipes, pipe makers, and tobaccos)
  • Pipes et Tabacs Group (French pipes and tobacco discussion group)
• GERMANY
  • Freunde der Tabakpfeife (Forum fuer den stressfreien Austausch unter Pfeifenrauchern)
  • Pfeifen und mehr (Pum) (Portal&Forum – pipes,tobacco,lifestyle)
  • P & T (Pfeife & Tabak – Vom Genuß des Rauchens)
  • The Smoker’s Lounge
  • Stanwell Tobacco/Pipe Forum (Das Forum für Stanwell-Freunde)
  • de.alt.fan.tabak/Newsgroup (Webseite der Newsgroup de.alt.fan.tabak)
• IRAN
  • cafeartin (The first site in Iran for visits and quality of articles! All about cigars, pipes and accessories. Managed by Mr. Artin Abrahamian)
• ITALY
  • GustoTabacco (The first site in Italy for visits and quality of articles! All about cigars, pipes, cigarettes and accessories.)
  • Legio Forum (The Pipe Club of Rome forum a reference for the agonistic slowsmoke in Europe)
  • Fumare La Pipa (The first and biggest italian website dedicated to pipe, pipesmokers, pipemakers…)
• POLAND
  • [1] (Polish Pipe Smokers and FMS Pipe Club forum)
  • [2] (Polish Pipe Smokers newsgroup)
• ROMANIA
  • [3] (The Pipe Club of Bucharest)
• RUSSIA, Ex-USSR
  • pipeclub.info (Russian Speaking Pipe Club Association)
  • pipe-club.com (Armenian International Pipe Club)
• SLOVENIA
  • Fajfarji – Slovenski ljubitelji pip (Slovenian speaking pipesmokers forum)
• SOUTH AFRICA
  • pipesmokersforum.co.za (South African pipe smokers forum)
• SPAIN
  • Pipaforo (Foro en catellano para los fumadores de pipa)
  • La Pipa (Página en castellano sobre la pipa y el tabaco)
• UNITED STATES (with many users from the United Kingdom)
  • A.S.P (The web home of alt.smokers.pipes, a very active and interesting newsgroup)
  • Christian Pipe Smokers (An active group of pipe smokers that also discuss theology)
  • Gray Fox Online Forum (General pipe smoking forum with an emphasis on old and new Kaywoodies)
  • International Pipe Club (Hosted by the International Cigar Club. Great information on pipes and tobaccos. Pipe makers, tobacco blenders and cigar information.)
  • Ladies Of The Briar (Yahoo Group for women pipe smokers)
  • NASPC.org (North American Society of Pipe Collectors)
  • Pipe Makers Forum.com (Great information on pipe making and fellowship with pipe makers)
  • Pipes.org (Lots of great links and a wealth of information)
  • PipesMagazine.com (Online magazine with articles, news, information, interviews, videos, forums and blogs.)
  • Smokers Forums (An active international online pipe-smoking community committed to a civil tone)
  • Club Stogie – (Now Cigar Asylum) (A cigar site in name but one which also has a strong pipe smoking community; see the Pipe Forums.)
  • Brothers of Briar (A community driven pipe forum with a focus on openness and camaraderie.)
  • SmokingPipeTobacco.com (A useful website with links to videos on pipe smoking and access to the Tamp & Puff discussion forums)
  • Pipe Smokers Forum (A community dedicated to the art of tobacco pipe smoking)

[edit] Blogs

• ARGENTINA
  • PipaMania EL sitio de los pipa fumadores.
• BRASIL
  • Do Cachimbo, Tabaco & Afins
  • Cachimbo de Ferdinando
• FRANCE
  • Fumeur de Pipes Fumer est aussi un plaisir !
  • Odd pipes – Pipes bizarres – Ausgefallene Pfeifen
    Leather wrapped pipes, Cavalier shapes – pipes gainées, Cavalier etc… – Leder überzogene Pfeifen, Cavalier formen usw…
  • Des bouts de reve – David Enrique’s pipe blog
  • Pipe Gazette
  • Melan Pipe Carnet d’atelier
• CHILE
  • Blog de Ovejanegra
  • Blog Los Cachimberos
• ITALY
  • Nonsolopipa
  • Pipology an italian collective blog about the culture of pipes and tobaccos
• UNITED STATES
  • A Passion For Pipes Neill Roan’s excellent blog
  • Pipe-Smokers.net (A website/blog with pipe reviews, tobacco reviews, helpful videos, and all things pipes)
  • Cake and Dottle
• URUGUAY
  • Blog Pipas y Tabacos Consultorio

[edit] Pipe Clubs

• ARMENIA
  • pipe-club.com (Armenian International Pipe Club)
• ARGENTINA
  • Pipa Club Buenos Aires (The portal for worldwide Argentine pipe smokers, dealers and makers, since 2000)
• BRAZIL
  • Confraria dos Amigos do Cachimbo (Since 2000)
• CANADA

• CROATIA
  • Piperson (Croatian Smoking Pipe Longue)
• FRANCE
  • Pipe-Club Ardéchois (International Club)
• GREECE
  • Greek Pipe Smokers Club
• GERMANY
  • Bonner Qualmköpp (Bonn / Cologne area)
  • Ostdeutscher Pfeifenraucherverband (East German Pipe Smokers Association)
  • Tabakskollegium Berlin (Berlin Tobacco College). Also organizes the Berlin Pipe Show and participates in the annual Berlin Christmas Charity event organized by Frank Zander.
  • Tabakskollegium Sommerstorf (Homed in Mecklenburg-Vorpommern. Visit also the club’s core Wirtshaus zum Hufschmied, a countryside inn with pipe & tobacco depot. Very unique!
• HUNGARY
  • Magyar Pipaklub Egyesület (Hungarian Pipe Club – Budapest – Hungary)
  • Magyar Pipaszövetség (Hungarian Pipe Smokers Association – Debrecen – Hungary)
• ITALY
  • Legio Praetoria (The Pipe Club of Rome – Italy)
• LEBANON
  • Pipe Club of Lebanon (The Pipe Club of Lebanon – Lebanon)
• POLAND
  • [4] (Polish Pipe Clubs Council)
  • [5] (FMS Pipe Club website)
• ROMANIA
  • [6] (Official Pipe Club of Bucharest)
  • [7] (Official Pipe Club of Romania, set in Constanta)
• RUSSIA, Ex-USSR
  • [8] (Russian Speaking Pipe Clubs in one place)
• SCOTLAND
  • Edinburgh Pipe Club
• SPAIN
  • Barcelona Pipa Club (La pagina del BPC sobre pipas y tabacos más activa para toda la comunidad de habla hispana)
• SWEDEN
  • Svenska Pipklubben (Pipe Club Of Sweden; founded in 1991. Club magazine Rökringar is published four times a year.)
• SWITZERLAND
  • Pfeifenclub Innerschwyz (Pipe Club Innerschwyz).
• UNITED STATES
  • Tri State Pipe and Tobacco Club (TSPTC, Fort Wayne, Indiana)
  • Sherlock Holmes Pipe Club of Boston (The Sherlock Holmes Pipe Club of Boston has been keeping the smoking lamp lit since 1989. Read our monthly newsletter or better yet, stop by for a meeting and become a member.)
  • CORPS: Conclave of Richmond Pipe Smokers (Based in Richmond, Virginia.)
  • Hampton Roads Pipe Club Facebook Hampton Roads Pipe Club, Hampton Roads, VA. We meet the first Tuesday of the month. See our Facebook page for more info.
  • The New York Pipe Club (The New York Pipe Club meets monthly and everyone is welcome. Visit our web site for meeting dates and more information.)
  • NJFPS : New Jersey Fellowship of Pipe Smokers. Meets every second Thursday of the month at JR Cigars Whippany NJ.
  • South West Pipe and Cigar League (Los Angeles and Orange County area pipe club)
  • Are there any more? ;)
• URUGUAY
  • Club de Pipafumadores del Uruguay Urupipas 2001 (Since 2001 – en Internet desde el 10 de agosto de 2001)

[edit] Special pages (dedicated to particular themes)

• Antique Pipes
  • “The Tobacco Pipe Artistory” Page on Facebook (Launched by Daniel Beck and Ben Rapaport)
• Catalogs, brochures, flyers, ads…
  • Chris’ Pipe Pages (Chris Keene’s wonderful collection)
  • [9] (Stanwell-shape-list)
• Miscellaneous
  • Pipe Lore (Knowledge with every puff)
• Tobacco
  • TobaccoReviews.com (A fantastic site to research tobaccos you might enjoy)
  • Smoking Pipe (Tobacco article on Wikipedia)
• Tobacciana
  • Advertising Antiques (Wonderful collection of old tin tobacco and pipe advertising signs, tobacco tins, and miscellaneous tobacciana.

[edit] Important articles (Journalistic articles on basic topics)

• Briar
  • The Briar Saga I, The Briar Saga II – Rainer Barbi on the myths of briar.
• Dating Pipes
  • On Dating Charatan – The most complete article on dating charatan by Fabio Ferrara; in Italian.
• Humor
  • Toward a Theology of Pipesmoking – A humorous tract by the Rev. Arthur D. Yunker; permission granted by author.
• Pipemaking
  • A Short History of The Italian Handmade Pipe – R.D. Field on the Castello, Caminetto and Ascorti connection.
  • Beyond Tsuge – Martin Farrent interviews Sykes Wilford about Japanese pipes. (Originally published at Pfeifenbox)
  • Go West – A fascinating look at high grade American pipe makers from across the pond by Erwin Van Hove. (Originally published in the French magazine “Pipe Mag”.)
  • The Best Sandblasted Pipes are Being Made By Americans – By Fred Hanna; originally published in “The Pipe Collector”.
  • Thoughts on Italian Pipes – Sykes Wilford’s musings on Italian pipe design.

• • WikiPipa. (Enciclopedia Virtual de la Pipa)

[edit] Ashtrays

Castello

A nice to have but not really a need to have, great for indoor smoking so you don’t bosh your spent tobacco onto your brand new sofa but not entirely required as anything will do the trick.

[edit] Bags and Pouches

Artisans

• Schwoebs-Pfeifentaschen
• Smokin’ Holsters
• Whitewood Leather

The following pipe briefcase was a birthday gift years ago. Purchased from an unknown source:

[edit] Cleaning Supplies

[edit] Lighters

Kitchen Matches in cast iron holder

2002 A.S.P. Logo Zippo, courtesy aspipes.org

1947 Nimrod Advertisement

For many pipe smokers, a quality pipe specific lighter is an integral part of their pipe smoking experience. Others prefer wooden matches, citing that even the best lighters will taint the experience with fumes from the spent fuel. In matches, a wooden kitchen match works best, and to be sure a wooden match is not only affordable it is relatively safe for your pipe. Even matches can impart fumes, but those can me minimized or eliminated if one is careful to let the sulfur burn off completely before apply flame to tobacco. All experienced pipemen agree that using a torch lighter, such as intended for cigars, can quickly ruin a pipe. They are to be completely avoided by anyone who cares about their pipes. Choosing a good lighter, one designed for pipes and that matches your budget and sense of aesthetic, and then learning to use it carefully is a viable option for those that find matches are not for them.

[edit] Fluid Lighters

Zippo makes an affordable pipe specific lighter in several styles. It has a special windscreen (pipe insert) with a hole that allows the flame to be drawn into the pipe bowl. Many pipemen swear by them and have learned to use them to minimize the impact of the fumes from the spent fuel. Others find that the naphtha lighter fuel imparts fumes regardless of how they’re used. Proponents minimize the fumes by allowing them to burn off after first lighting the lighter and before drawing the flame into the tobacco, much like letting the sulpher burn off a match.

The three other major US non-butane lighter were the Nimrod Pipe Lighter, the Nimrod Commander, and the Beattie Jet Lighter.

Two Nimrod models were eventually manufactured. The Pipe Lighter model was unique in that it looked like a nut and bolt, and was lit by holding a thumb on the spark wheel, and pulling apart the lighter. A second model was the Commander (or Admiral), which resembled the current Zippo pipe lighter.

[edit] Butane Lighters

The IM Corona Old Boy is perhaps one of the most popular and successful butane pipe lighter. It comes in several attractive case designs. It is extremely dependable and aesthetically pleasing. It uses an older flint and wheel type ignition system. IM Corona makes several other pipe lighters as well. [1]

Dunhill makes excellent pipe lighters.

Colibri makes excellent pipe lighters, including the now discontinued “Clip” lighters made to clip in the shirt pocket like a pen.

IM Corona Old Boy in Smooth Briar

Colibri “Clip” pipe lighter, now discontinued

IMCO Pipe Lighter

Xikar offers three mid-range butane pipe lighters including the Resource [2] , the Pipeline [3] (an an Old-Boy knock off), and the Scribe [4] , a Colibri “Clip” knock off.

An inexpensive but still refillable butane lighter is the IMCO. Not an elegant lighter, by any means, but a step up from a bic or generic cigarette type lighter and more importantly, one that is designed for use with pipes with an inclined flame.

[edit] Pipe Racks, rests, and stands

Photo courtesy of Langston302

Photo courtesy of Langston302

Pipe racks and stands come in many configurations, ranging from simple briar singles to more intricate ashtray models. Here are some for your consideration.

[edit] Tampers

A Classic Czech Pipe Tool, works great and affordable

Pipe tampers are essential. Used for tamping tobacco. Like anything pipe related they range from cheap and functional to works of art.

Photos of several tools courtesy Pete Reiff, Shenandoah Valley Specialty Products

Generic Stamped Combination Tool	Generic Pipe Nail	Kershaw Combination Pipe Tool	Generic Plastic Tamp w/internal Pick
Generic Plastic Tamp w/scraper handle

[edit] Tamper Artisans

Opel Guy Tampers, courtesy Mark Williams

• Hammerpilot – different materials
• Jagwal – exotic and unusual woods
• Ming-Kahuna – different acrylics / others
• Ozark Mountain Briars – domestic and exotic woods
• Opal Guy – Mark Williams
• Papa Duke – ivory, bone & deer antler
• Penguin Briar – briar tipped deer antler
• Sandpiper – exotic hardwoods w. silver bases
• The Ram’s Horn – pewter casted tampers
• ZapZap Tampers – artisan ivory, bone, hardwoods
• GM Pipes 2009 Signature Series – Hardwood angled tampers

[edit] Curiosities

(1) Briar Pipe Dryer	(2) Beer mug
(3) Flacon	(4) Pin

1. Electric Briar Pipe Dryer by Blue Mountain Pottery, USA.
2. German beer mug “Pfeifenclub Michelau” (Upper Franconia). In former centuries smoking in private houses was widely forbidden by fire police regulations. This was the origin of many a pipe or smoker’s club. More recently many good housewife forbade her husband to smoke at home for the sake of the curtains. Humorously indicated on the mug by a bird escaping from it’s cage.
3. Avon after-shave lotion, Germany ca. 1980.
4. Pin “Danish fancy”; origin unknown.

This area is still under construction, so please wear a hard hat & your favourite smoking jacket.
Websites Depicting Pipe Marks & Logos

Pipes: Logos & Markings – Currently the most comprehensive Marks and Logos website (French and English)

• Victor Akishkin
• Ray Bromley
• Comunidad de la Pipa
• Confraria dos Amigos do Cachimbo

 
Aldo Velani – Italy – Gold & Silver Circle:

Butz Choquin – France – BC Inside a circle:

Peterson – Ireland – White script “P” stamped on stem:

Salvatella – Stylised White “S” stamped on stem:

Savinelli – Italy – “S” Inside a shield surmounted by 2 pipes, stamped on stem & shank:

Stanwell – Denmark – “S” surmounted by a Crown stamped on stem:

Vuillard – France – Stylised White “V” stamped on stem:

Elie – Belgium/Portugal – Stylised Gold “E” inset into stem: ; Pipe Stamp:

Pipes JAS – Chile – Stylised “JAS” stamped on shank:

Mastro Grandolfo – Italy – Golden Lily:

The Pipe Making subsection of Pipedia serves as the Wiki home of the PipemakersForum.com. Much of what appears here is gleaned from the Forum. We highly recommend reading and participation in the forum in addition to reading and contributing here.

New pipe makers may find this chart helpful. Classic Pipe Shapes, by Bill Burney:

Teddy Knudsen shaping, courtesy Lars Kiel

Getting Started

Many pipe makers in the US start out with a small Book called Pimo’s Guide to Pipe Crafting at Home. While far from exhaustive, this small book offers many helpful tips on pipe making with minimal tooling. Also helpful is the article Pipe Making For The Rank Amateur, by Bob Everett. The Pipe Dan Hobby Catalog has some good basic information as well.

A Cautionary Note: Because some ultra high grade pipes sell for thousands of dollars, it is tempting for the uninitiated to think they may be able to get rich making pipes, or at least make a decent living. Relatively few pipe makers make their primary living as pipe makers, and it is a very small handful of pipe makers that sell in the upper price ranges. Those that do have unusual talents or gifts and have dedicated a great deal of time developing them. Most also invest a considerable amount of money in equipment and materials. Having said this, pipe making is great fun, and very rewarding in many ways, but be careful–most pipe smokers are not addicted to tobacco, but most pipe makers are addicted to pipe making!

Believing: “Damn the torpedoes, man, full speed ahead.”

Pipe Kits:

Pre-bored pipe making kits with pre-fit stems are a good way to start, especially for those who don’t have access to many tools, or previous woodworking experience. With the kit, the new pipe maker can focus their efforts on shaping and finishing the pipe and avoid the pitfalls associated with drilling the tobacco chamber, airway, and mortise, not to mention facing the shank and stem to meet perfectly, and turning the tenon of the stem to fit snugly in the mortise. These steps are all great fun and some first time pipe makers start right in from scratch, but it can be a bit overwhelming and tool intensive for the beginner without a background in woodworking or machining trades. Even with the pipe kit, it is still possible to do some “tweaking” of the airway in the shank and stem, as well as thinning the button area and carefully funneling the slot. Careful attention to tweaking in the generic mechanics of a pipe kit after shaping the stummel and shank can turn it into a really fine pipe, and every bit your own creation.

Pipe kits generally come in variations of three basic styles intended for bent pipes, straight pipes, or freehand pipes. Several pipe makers also offer custom kits. Kits are available with two different pre-fit stem mounting styles (flush or military mount), and using either ebauchon or plateaux cut briar blocks.

Ebauchon blocks are generally used in the manufacture of machine made pipes. They are most often cut perpendicular to the axis of the straight grain, which renders cross grains with birdseye. They tend to have more inherent flaws than plateaux briar. They are typically good for a small to medium pipe, and are most often cheaper, and often recommended for a first pipe.

Plateaux Briar, as the name suggests, is the top part of the burl. It has a rough pebble top that can be left on for a freehand look or sanded smooth for a traditional appearance. Plateaux comes in different shapes and sizes. The custom pipe kit makers will do the best they can to match your design to the proper block. Plateaux grain tends to run straight or angled. These blocks will generally yield flame grains or an occasional straight grain. They contain generally less flaws than ebauchon, though you don’t know what a block will yield until you get into it.

Pimo offers kits, but many pipe makers in the US recommend the ones from American Smoking Pipe Co. (Mark Tinsky). Available from The American Smoking Pipe, or from Tim West (J.H. Lowe) available from J.H.Lowe. Kits are also available from Pipe Makers Emporium, Kim Kendall at Penguin Briar, and eBay store, GreatGoodsRUS.

In Denmark kits available from P.E.Hermann. In Norway kits are available from Tabago. In Germany kits are available from Dan Pipe.

Basic Tools

1st October 1945. Mr. Presland is making and selling cherrywood pipes by a roadside near an Allied Forces base in Gloucestershire / GB.

It is wise to refrain from investing in expensive tooling until you have made your first few pipes. Tools needed to complete a pipe kit:

1. Electric Hand drill(variable speed 3/8″ or larger)
   1. Buy or build a jig that will enable you to clamp the drill to your work bench or table.
   2. Flexible 3″ to 5″ sanding disk and arbor, and assorted grit sandpaper.
   3. At least 2 6″ buffing wheels and arbors, buffing compounds, Carnuba wax.
2. Files(Nicholson makes nice file sets at affordable prices. One can never have too many files of various sizes, shapes and cuts). A round chain saw file is also very handy.
3. Coping saw for rough shaping
4. Eye protection and respirator or dust masks.

The electric hand drill and accessories is optional. It saves a lot of time, and can be used for many other things should pipe making not be an ongoing interest. Still, it’s amazing how much one can do with just files, sandpaper, and elbow grease.

It is best to use only one type of compound on each buffing wheel. Ideally it is good to have four. Two muslin ones for compounds, one muslin one for applying the Carnuba wax, and one flannel wheel for the final buff.

Note: The above tools are very adequate for working with pipe kits. If you’re planning on drilling the stummel (briar block) and then fitting the stem to the block, you will also want either a more elaborate jig for mounting your hand drill, such as is described in the Pimo book, a drill press (drill press frames for holding your hand drill would also work), or a lathe. In addition you will need to buy or make tobacco chamber bits, and buy drill bits for drilling the mortise and airway (see Tooling).

Basic Supplies

The following supplies may be needed to complete a pipe kit:

1. Sandpaper in the following grits: 150, 220, 360, 400, and 600.
2. Stain of your choice. Use alcohol based analyn dye, or leather dye
3. Denatured alcohol for thinning stains and wetting the pipe to see grain and scratches
4. Buffing compounds (tan or brown tripoli and white diamond are a good start).
5. Carnauba wax for a smooth finish, and/or maybe shellac for a rusticated finish.

Many of these items can be purchased locally. Others can be ordered with your pipe kit. Also see Materials and Supplies.

Design and R&D

This section is under development. We hope to add more articles and topics pertaining to Pipe Design and Mechanics as they are found and collated. Trever Talbert on Design Work

Airflow

Many pipe enthusiasts are familiar with Rick Newcombe’s writing on airflow, where he suggests that pipes with an open air flow smoke better. While not the originator of this concept, he has been its most public advocate, and duly credited with its popularization. Ken Campbell has written an article for The Pipe Collector called Airflow: The Key to Smoking Pleasure which further explores the concept.

The concept of “opening” was originally employed in the after-market modification of production engineering. Many pipe makers have adopted elements of this concept of airflow, with many American makers using airways ranging from 9/64″ to 11/64″. A related and perhaps more important aspect of an open air flow is providing for constant airway volume as it passes through the sections of the pipe. This concept was pioneered by J.T. Cooke and further developed by Trever Talbert, Jody Davis (J. Davis) and Todd Johnson. While traditional pipe engineering often utilizes different diameter bits for airways in the shank and stem, this constant volume technique employs the same overall diameter bit throughout, with the exception of the last 1″ or so at the bit. Here it tapers evenly down while also widening out. This provides for a comfortably thin bit, while also providing for a constant volume of smoke throughout the smoke stream.

Stummels

The “Stummel” is the briar portion of the pipe, which includes the bowl and shank.

Briar

Here are some interesting articles on briar:

• Characteristics Of Briar is a very thorough and interesting research paper in .pdf format by G. Tsoumis, N. Kezos, I Fanariotou, E. Voulgaridis, and C. Passialis documenting the various characteristics of briar.
• Curing & Treating, by Trever Talbert
• Where to Get Your Briar, by Kurt Huhn
• 100 Year Old Briar?, A small collection of information by Bill Unger.
• R.C. Hamlin has also written an interesting article on this subject of briar called The Briar Factor.
• So you think you’re a “Briar Afficionado”? This is a short but extremely informative article by Rainer Barbi available here: The Briar Saga Page 1 & The Briar Saga Page 2.
• My Visit to A Briar Sawmill, What Makes a Good Briar Pipe, The Art of Sandblasting, and Curing all excellent articles by R.D. Field.

Morta

Morta is semi-fossilized wood. It is created when large trees are felled or overturned by geologic activity and become buried in an oxygen-limited fashion, usually in peat or clay. The wood is unable to rot normally so it begins the long process of fossilizing into stone. Morta is a generic term used to describe any semi-fossilized wood of this style. Morta is found in various locations across the globe, usually in marshlands or moors, and varies widely in its durability, age, and potential usefulness for pipe making. Trever Talbert is one of the pipe makers using Morta for one of his lines of pipes, and the morta he uses is from a local oak forest that covered the Briere area some 3,000+ years ago. Trever describes the process in the following article, Creating Pipes From Morta

Other Materials

Most pipemakers and collectors would probably agree that Briar (a term with considerable range) is the choice for tobacco pipes. Briar grain can be excellent aesthetically for the small-scale work that tobacco pipes are. Briar can also have other properties which are desirable, a sweet, mild, pleasant aroma when cured properly, and a resistance to burning. Still, some pipemakers use other materials, like Ebony (wood), African Blackwood, Morta (fossilized wood), and many other species of wood.

The dust of most wood is an irritant and can sensitize. The dust from Beech, Hemlock, Oak, Oleander, Quebracho, Redwood, Sassafras, and Yew are listed as carcinogens, but little is known about their smoking properties. Although the exact origin of a particular block of briar is often unknown, the fact that it only seems to flourish in remote, mountainous areas, means it probably has less chance of being affected by the pollutants of industry and civilization, and briar has been used in pipemaking since about 1840 according to Rainer Barbi.

I, personally, have seen no examples of European classical pipes made of Catlinite, the Red or Black “Pipestone” used by Native American (Indian) pipemakers.

“It is believed that the Mayan people of Central America were among the first pipe smokers several thousand years ago and archaeologists have found pipes dating from around 2,000 B.C.” (Source: http://www.bat.com/ …British America Tobacco company)

I have used Hard Maple, Black Walnut, and even sticks from the Photenia (Redtip) shrub for experimental pipes, and I also have smoked them regularly. These woods were merely cut and then dried thoroughly for several years. The characteristic smell and taste of each wood is distinctly noticeable when the pipe is first smoked. I smoke my pipes, perhaps too heavily, and once they are broken-in good, saturated with tar, and the bowls heavily caked, I don’t notice much effect on the quality of the smoke?

Also see the “Alternative Woods Used For Pipe making section in “Materials and Construction”

Overview

The basis for the following section was written by Tyler Lane for his website, and is used by permission.

The internal engineering of a pipe does a lot to determine the smoking qualities of a pipe. While it is most certainly critical to start with good briar, it is also important to take care to do a good job of drilling in order to maximize the potential of the briar. A poorly drilled pipe is not only a sign of a maker’s sloppiness, but is likely to hurt the smoking qualities of a pipe.

Essentially three holes need be drilled in the briar block to make it into a pipe. The tobacco chamber , the draught hole (or smoke hole), and the mortise (the hole in the end of the shank which the stem is inserted into).

Most tobacco chambers are 5/8″-1″, and I estimate that the majority of handmade pipes have tobacco chambers from 3/4″-7/8″ range. The profile of this holes ranges from a U-shape to a V-shape, determined mostly by the shape of the bowl. A tobacco chamber’s diameter is measured at the top of the bowl.

Draught-hole size is a topic of much debate. The size of this hole is a large factor in the openness of the draw, and the debate is over which size brings the best smoking characteristics. I personally use 5/32″ (3.97 mm), and this is on the larger size of the debate. Some endorse a draught hole as large as 4.2-4.3 mm, while some say that 3.2-3.5 mm is the optimum size. Ultimately, there are so many variables, from tobacco chamber size and shape, to the nature and curing of each block of briar, that it is nigh on impossible to claim a best size for all scenarios. As such, a compromise much be reached, and each pipe maker must use a size that he determines best matches his, and his customers’, desires.

Finally, there is the mortise. This needs to be very cleanly cut into the shank to provide a nice fit for the tenon on the stem. Most mortises range from 1/4″- 3/8″, with the norm falling around 5/16″.

Drilling can be done at various points in the carving process. I personally drill the holes as the first step of the pipe making process, in the order of draught hole, mortise hole, then tobacco chamber. I think this is the standard order of events for most hobbyist carvers. Many of the Danish carvers, shape the pipe first then drill the stummel by hand after it is shaped. The advantage to this process is that the shape of the pipe is not constrained by the pre-bored holes, and the shape can therefore be adjusted to maximize the beauty of the grain and minimize pits. It is not practiced as often as the “holes-first” method, I suppose because of years of practice necessary to develop the degree of skill it requires to drill the holes properly by hand.

The following articles should prove helpful in understanding the process of drilling and shaping the stummel.

Processes

Pipe makers use a variety of methods to accomplish the basic tasks of making a pipe. The following articles attempt to chronicle methods for working with stummels that are in use by some respected pipe makers.

Drilling on a Lathe (Tyler Lane) | Shaping on a Lathe (Tyler Lane) | Shaping with a Sanding Disc (Tyler Lane) | Shaping with Misc Tools (Tyler Lane) | Bamboo Shanks | Hardwood Shank Extensions | Trever Talbert on Sawing and Shaping | Trever Talbert on Drilling | Trever Talbert on Detail Shaping | Creating Pipes From Morta (Trever Talbert)

Shaping Before Drilling

The Chicago pipe show site has some videos of pipe making: J.T. Cooke Video Nana Ivarssen

Video processes Papalia pipe

Joel Shaperio (JS Pipes) has a nice photo essay of his Pipe making process

Stems

Pre-molded stems

Pre-molded stems come in a fairly large variety of shapes and sizes. They are available in both Vulcanite and Acrylic/Lucite. These are useful for the beginner pipe maker & pipe repairman. Extensive work is needed on most pre-molded stems to get them to fit the pipe properly, and conform to the shape of the pipe shank. If the stem is being fitted to a “bent” pipe, it will also need to be heated and bent to shape. In addition to fitting the stem to the stummel, most hand made pipe makers will make significant modifications to pre-molded stems by thinning the bits, and opening up the air ways.

Pre-molded stem tenons are oversize so that they can be fit precisely to the mortise in the shank. Either the integral tenon is turned, sanded and buffed to the correct diameter, or a retro-fit Delrin tenon can be used. [1].

Pimo Tool, courtesy Pimos

Turning integral tenons to size is best done on a metal lathe. To accomplish this the stem must fit through the center of the lathe chuck. After the stem is mounted, turning the tenon to size can be handled much like turning a tenon on rod stock (see Turning Tenons). Without a suitable lathe, a device such as the Pimo Tenon Turning Tool can be used in either a drill press, or a mounted power hand drill (see Using the Pimo Tenon Turning Tool). J.H. Lowe and others also make tenon turning tools for this procedure. While there are many better alternatives, the Pimo tool is the cheapest, and will get the job done once mastered, but most pipe makers will soon see that a metal lathe is worth the investment.

Using a Delrin tenon is an excellent solution on pre-molded stems, and avoids the pitfalls of turning an integral tenon. The trick with using Delrin is accurately facing and drilling the stem in preparation to gluing in the Delrin. Any deviation from 90 degrees between stem face and tenon will make it impossible to have a flush fit to the stummel. Again, a lathe makes this a simple procedure. A drill press or mounted power hand drill can also be used, but the stem must be held in a vice or jig to insure the finished tenon and stem face are kept perfectly square. First cut off the existing tenon, mount it in the vice or jig, face off the stem (Forstner bits are excellent for this), and drill mortise in the stem for the Delrin (see Using Delrin Tenons.

J.H.Lowe and Pipe Makers Emporium carry a fairly decent selection of pre-molded stems. For other suppliers see the Materials and Supplies section at the bottom of this page.

Hand cut stems

The basis for the following section was written by Tyler Lane for his website, and is used by permission.

Since the majority of pipes are made of stems that were pre-formed, I think it is safe to say that stems were largely an afterthought for most pipes. I suspect that when most folks think of pipe making, they think of stummel shaping and stem fitting. I do not think it even crosses the mind of the majority of hobbyist pipe makers to actually hand cut stems. I am of the opinion that this is an unfortunate mistake. The stem, both functionally and aesthetically, is a huge part of the success of a pipe. Here’s why:

1. Most flow problems in a pipe are in the stem. If you have ever had a wet smoker that whistled when you drew through the pipe when empty, I can almost guarantee you the whistle and wetness were caused by the stem. Lack of care in the stem is the demise of many pipes.
2. The comfort of the stem in one’s mouth can have a major influence on whether or not it becomes a favorite of the smoker.
3. Because of the variations on shape, size and proportion of stummels are infinite, but the economical feasibility of manufacturing pre-formed stems requires a very limited number of shapes and sizes, using pre-formed stems requires compromises on pipe design. By contrast, stems made expressly to complete the design of a singular pipe offers the opportunity for the most aesthetically pleasing pipe.
4. Vulcanite is commonly considered the most comfortable stem material in the teeth. Its main drawback is that it oxidizes and therefore requires maintenance; however, the high-grade German vulcanite typically used for hand cut stems is a MUCH superior material to the vulcanite used for pre-formed stems. As such, the German vulcanite used for hand cut stems oxidizes so little that it requires little more care than the bowl of the pipe, while retaining its comfort advantage over acrylic.

All that said, I do offer some pointers on using pre-formed stems because I recognize the economic necessity of needing to start pipe making with compromises. Since we cannot buy pre-formed stummels, and start pipe making by fitting hand cut bits to pre-formed stummels, we opt for the choice to make stummels and fit pre-formed stems. It is a fine place to start, and thanks to the Pimo tenon turning tool, a relatively inexpensive place to start.

Tyler Lane on Drilling Vulcanite Rod | Turning Tenons | Cutting the Slit

Trever Talbert on Stem Work

Kurt Huhn photo essay on Hand Cut Stems (mostly covers shaping).

Delrin tenons

Delrin is the brand name for an acetal resin engineering plastic invented and sold by DuPont. Often marketed and used as a metal substitute, Delrin is a lightweight, low-friction, and wear-resistant plastic capable of operating in temperatures in excess of 90 degrees celsius (approx 200 degrees Fahrenheit). According to the material safety data sheet from DuPont, the material has a slight odor of formaldehyde.

Other names for this compound include: polyoxymethylene (POM), acetal resin, polytrioxane and polyformaldehyde.

The Food and Drug Administration has approved Delrin for use in the food industry.

Delrin has proven to be an excellent material for stem tenons in pipe making. It is self-lubricating, and strong. Its strength can also be a disadvantage through–should a pipe with a Delrin tenon be dropped, the shank might break instead of the tenon. Shank repairs are, of course, much more problematic then stem replacement, or repairs to a broken tenon. Another disadvantage is Delrin also limits the shape of the stem near the shank of the pipe where the Delrin is glued into the stem. This is especially problematic for saddle or 1/2 saddle stems where the design must accommodate the location of the Delrin instead of simply worrying about the air way itself. Still, Delrin is the prefered tenon material of many pipe makers, and an excellent alternative to cutting tenons into hand cut stems, or turning down the tenons on pre-molded stems.

See Using Delrin Tenons for a complete outline of how to use Delrin tenons.

Stem inserts

Stem inserts are used as accents by many pipe makers. To clarify, inserts become part of the stem and are not to be confused with shank extensions, which become part of the stummel (see Shank Extensions), although some designs do blur these distinctions. Stem inserts are most often made from material that contrast with the stummel and stem, so lighter materials, or materials that contain lighter components to them, tend to be the most aesthetically pleasing. Popular with pipe makers is Ivory, (which can be purchased legally and used ethically), antler, horn, bone, boxwood, and many other exotic hardwoods. Most often an end cap of the same material used for the stem is used to sandwich in the insert material. See Stem Inserts for suggested techniques.

Finishing

This is a critical aspect of pipe making that is often the demise of an otherwise nice pipe. Finishing a pipe can take often take as long, or longer, than the shaping of the pipe. Care in this process is worth it, as the result will be both beautiful and lasting.

Sanding | Staining | Polishing | Rustication | Sand blasting | Stamping | Trever Talbert on Finishing

Tooling

Machines

Machines can be a huge asset while making pipes. Each pipe maker finds and refines their own methods, so the machines used vary greatly, but the following types of machines are common to professional and serious amateur pipe makers.

Wood Lathe | Drill Press | Metal Lathe | Band Saw | Dremel | Belt Sander | Disk Sander | Buffer

Hand Tools

In addition to the hand tools listed in the Basic Tools section, most professional and serious amateur pipe makers will want to acquire the following:

Tools for stamping or marking

Custom made stamp with name and/or logo: Most US pipe makers are using Paul at A&M steel stamps. He has made something of a specialty out of supplying pipe makers. The angles of the steel he uses is designed for wood and will cut cleaner than generic stamps.

A & M Steel Stamps
55 Windsor Ave,
Mineola, N.Y. 11501
Phone: 516-741-6223
E-mail: mailto:amsteelstamps@yahoo.com

A set of generic 1/16″ to 1/8″ letter and number stamps is also helpful. 3/32″ may be the ideal size, but is more difficult to find, and more expensive. Harbor freight sometimes has the 1/16″ set and almost always has the 1/8″ stamp set stamps. Brownells has 1/16″, 3/32″, and an interesting looking stamp guide.

Drills and Bits

This section and its sub-sections are in the very early stages of development, please feel free to dive in! I had to leave them before finishing. We need photo examples of the options listed.

Trever Talbert‘s drill and bit selection

You just can’t have too many options when it comes to drills and bits, or I guess any other tooling! Pipe making requires a combination of specialty or customized bits, and off-the-shelf drills. Even the off-the-shelf drills used are sometimes hard to find locally and must be ordered.

Chamber Bits

Modified S&D bits, courtesy Trent Rudat

Modified Spade bit, courtesy Pimo

Spoon bits, Courtesy PiaPipes (Eltang)

This is a huge subject, and one that should perhaps split off into its own article. Pipe makers use a variety of tobacco chamber bits, depending on the machines and techniques used. The four major categories are:

1. Spade type bits that have been specially ground are the easiest to acquire. They are inexpensive, and easy to make yourself by modifying off the shelf spade bits. Pimo Pipecraft and J.H. Lowe both make modified spoon bits.
2. Silver and Deming (S&D) drills can also by specially ground for use as chamber bits. They tend to cut cleaner and faster than the modified spade tip bits. While possible to grind yourself, it is more difficult. Custom ground bits can be ordered, but they are considerably more costly than the modified spade bits. Ken Lamb, and Trent Rudat both make modified S&D bits.
3. Customized tobacco chamber bits that resemble spoon bits are used by many of the Danish pipe makers, and are now being used by many others. These are nearly essential for the shape first method that involves holding the previously shaped stummel in ones hands, and pushing it into the spinning bit. They can be difficult to get. PiaPipes (Tom Eltang) has them on their Website. In the past, Brad Pohlmann a highly skilled machinist and pipe maker also made a batch of excellent chamber bits in this style.

Bur Bits are another type of bit which can be used to drill the chamber. Standard bur’s having a 1/4 in. dia. shank will fit most any drill chuck and will drill holes with straight or tapered sides and rounded bottoms, perfect for pipe bowls. They are available up to 1 in. dia. round-ball shaped, and 3/4 in. dia. oval-egg, and tree w/radius end shapes and in other shapes and sizes at www.mcmaster.com (mfg. www.fullertontool.com) and some other tool suppliers. They drill very cleanly, except some spiral marking on the sides which can be sanded out, but they are very slow, and will burn the wood if you drill too fast.

Typical Bur Bits

Drills for mortise and draught holes

Many pipes makers are using a 5/16″ mortise, and a 5/32″ draught hole, but will vary this according to the design of the pipe. The types of bit used vary depending on the technique employed and if the mortise is drilled before or after the draught hole. Options include:

1. 

   

   Brad point

   Brad or Spur tip wood bits. These work best when the mortise is drilled before the draught hole, or have fresh wood to center the spur, otherwise they can be pulled off course. In fresh wood, they track very well and produce a relatively flat hole (with a point at the bottom from the spur), the flatness facilitates a precise fit with the stem tenon, while the spur point in the center of the hole can also provide an excellent start for centering the bit used to drill the draught hole.

2. Standard Silver&Deming bits work great too, especially if you’re following a previously drilled draught hole. The main drawback is that the end of your tenon will need to be tapered to match the bottom of the mortise.
3. Forstner bits are an excellent choice. They leave a nice flat hole with clean sides. They’re accurate and will not tend to follow grain or a previously drilled hole.
4. An inexpensive alternative for drilling the mortise are end mill bits. The advantage is that they drill/mill perfectly flat bottomed holes, plus are available in increments of 1/64″.

Forstner bits

Forstner bit

Forstner bits, named after their inventor, Benjamin Forstner, bore precise, flat-bottomed holes in wood, in any orientation with respect to the wood grain. They can cut on the edge of a block of wood, and can cut overlapping holes.[2]In pipe making Forstner bits are often used for facing operations while making shanks and stems, and can also be used for facing the top of the bowl. Many pipe makers also use them for drilling the mortise, providing a smooth flat bottomed hole that facilitates a precise tenon to mortise fit.

You will find cheap sets of Forstner bits abound in discount stores, but these are not accurate enough for shank and stem facing work, where precision ground bits can make all the difference in facilitating a flush fit. Respected brands include Freud, Famag, Fisch (there are many others). The important thing to look for is “precision ground” bits, and avoid the cheap sets.

Drills for stems

Taper point drill, courtesy Jamestown Distributors

6″ long taper point drills are an excellent choice for drilling out stem rod. 4mm, 5/32″, and 9/64″, and 1/8″ are popular choices, depending on design preferences.

The taper point drill is stopped around 3/4″ short of the bit end and followed up with a smaller straight bit that will facilitate thinning the stem at the bit for maximum comfort and aesthetics. Popular choices for this are HSS S&D bits in 1/16″, or 2mm diameters, with some pipe makers going as small as 1 mm. 6″ long “aircraft bits” enable this portion to be drilled from the same end as the rest of the air hole, or the rod stock can be flipped around and drilled from the other end with a shorter bit so long as proper alignment can be achieved with a self centering chuck or vice.

Other helpful bits

Center used for starting holes

Countersink

1. Because they are short and very robust, machinist’s centers or small countersinks of various diameters are very helpful for starting holes accurately in stems and stummels.
2. Countersinks can be helpful for beveling the edge of the mortise, and larger ones can facilitate beveling the tobacco chamber in certain designs.

Materials and Supplies

CHINA

Mindong: Briar; Bamboo; Horn.

DENMARK

P.E.Hermann: Assorted Pipemaking Supplies.

Pia Pipes: Spoon bits, assorted briar blocks and stems (Tom Eltang)

GERMANY

Dan Pipe: Pipe Kits; Briar; Preformed stems, Ebonite rod, Assorted finishing supplies.

Marco Janzen – Hermann von Appen: Assorted Pipemaking Supplies.

SEM: Ebonite Rod

GREECE

Alexander Briar Pipes: Greek Briar

Amadeus Pipes: Greek Briar

ITALY

Volontà Anselmo a.s.: Ebonite Rod

Romeo Briar (Mimmo): Italian Briar

Calabria Pipe: Italian Briar

La Radica Srl: Italian Briar

Briar Pipe (Manno): Italian Briar

SPAIN

Jaume Hom: Spanish Briar

Jean Pierre Soler: Spanish Briar

Sucesores de Emilio Navarro, S.L.: Spanish Briar

USA

American Smoking Pipe Co.: owned & operated by Mark Tinsky

J.H.Lowe: owned & operated by Tim West: Briar; Pipe Kits; Rod – Vulcanite & Acrylic/Lucite; Preformed Stems – Vulcanite & Acrylic/Lucite; Shank Repair Bands; Finishing Products – Buffs, Compounds, Abrasives, Stains, Wax; Machine Parts – Tenon Cutters, Arbors, Sanding Discs, Mortise Drill; Tools – Drills, Taps, Spade, Bits; Miscellaneous – Bone Screws, Delrin Tenons, Teflon Push Sets, Top Bowls, Bamboo, Calabash Bowls.

Pipecrafter: Owned and operated by Kurt Huhn. Pipe Kits, Motor Arbors, Sanding Pads.

Briar Pipe Tooling: owned & operated by Trent Rudat: Lathe chuck jaws customized for pipemakers; Silver & Deming bits ground for tobacco chamber boring; Any custom tooling to your specifications & requirements.

Delvie’s Plastics Inc.: Acrylic Rod for Stems; Buffing Wheels; Buffing Compounds; Buffing Machines.

Grizzly Industrial, Inc.: Buffing Wheels; Buffing Compounds; Buffing Machines; wood & metal working machines.

Jamestown Distributors: Taper Point Drill Bits; Abrasives.

Parks Pipes: Briar Blocks.

Penguin Briar: Pipe Kits, custom drilled to customer specs using good quality Algerian Briar.

Pipe Makers Emporium: Algerian Briar; Preformed Stems – Ebonite, Cumberland & Acrylic/Lucite; Rod – German Vulcanite & Acrylic/Lucite; Finishing Products, Bands, Tennons, Stain, Tools, Motors. Everything for the Pipe Repair person and Carver.

The American Smoking Pipe Co.: Briar; Preformed Stems.

E.A. Carey Predrilled Briar Pipe Kits

Masecraft Supply Company: Assorted Natural & Alternative Stem, stem insert, shank extension materials.

A & M Steel Stamps (custom stamp maker used by many US pipemakers): 55 Windsor Ave, Mineola, N.Y. 11501; Phone: 516-741-6223; E-mail: mailto:amsteelstamps@yahoo.com

MLCS Core Box and Round Nose bits for boring tobacco chamber.

Ken Lamb: Chucks, Bits, Cutters, etc.

Caswell: Buffing supplies.

McMaster-Carr Supply Co.: Huge general supply catalog, easy to find what you need & order, good prices on many items.

OnlineMetals.com: Delrin, stainless tubing, brass, etc…

The Great Industrial Garage Sale – eBay Store – Source for small pieces of black and white delrin – no minimum size purchase required.

Mark Yingling [3] Machinist and Pipemaker, made these chuck jaws.

American Art Plastics Celluloid • Casein • Bakelite • Hard Rubber (Ebonite) • Acrylic

The articles presented here were originally started with permission from the excellent FAQ from the Alt.Smokers.Pipes FAQ[1]

Maintenance

Not handy with tools, yet want to restore an old pipe? Rich Esserman wrote an excellent article that may be just the thing: Try this at Home

Reaming

After a pipe has been smoked for a long time its cake may become so thick that it significantly reduces the capacity of the bowl. In very extreme cases, an overly thick cake may actually crack the bowl due to differential expansion. Ideally, the cake should not exceed one-sixteenth of an inch (about 1.5 mm) or so. When the cake exceeds this thickness, it should be carefully reamed. Some pipe tools have a blunt-pointed (to prevent gouging of the bowl bottom) knife blade for this purpose. While these will work, it is very easy to trim the cake unevenly or even inadvertently dig into bare wood. Numerous adjustable, multibladed reamers are available commercially, and these will do a much neater job. A favored tool for this task–suggested by pipe maker extraordinaire JT Cooke–is nothing more than a series of short wooden dowels of varying diameters that are wrapped with fine grit emery cloth or sandpaper. Whatever device you choose to use, work slowly and carefully so as not to damage your pipe. The idea is to gradually shave the cake down to the proper thickness, not scrape it out in chunks. If you have more than the usual number of thumbs, you might want to take the pipe to your tobacconist, who will usually perform this task for a nominal fee.

What can I do when my pipe “turns sour”?

A pipe, properly cared for, will probably outlast its owner. Occasionally, however, a pipe may begin to taste bitter or “sour.” Sometimes this is caused by not allowing the pipe sufficient time to “rest” between smokes; other times, no cause can be determined with certainty. In any event, such a pipe can usually be rejuvenated by applying the “Professor’s Pipe-Sweetening Treatment,” publicized by Dennis Congos.

First, find some salt (non-iodized is preferred, but not essential), some alcohol (preferably “Everclear,” or some other form of near-pure, non-denatured ethanol), and a place to rest your pipe in a semi-upright position. Insert a pipe cleaner into the stem of the pipe so that it extends into the shank. Fill the bowl to the rim with salt and drip or carefully pour alcohol into the bowl until the salt is just saturated. Try not to get any alcohol on the pipe’s exterior, as this may damage the finish; any spills should be wiped up immediately. Leave the pipe alone for a day or two. After this time the salt will have turned brown from the absorption of “tars” from the bowl. Thoroughly clean all salt from the bowl and set the pipe aside overnight to dry completely. Your pipe will now be revitalized, and all traces of bitterness should be gone.

WARNING: Many people swear by this process, but the procedure is not risk-free. Some people have had pipes crack after this treatment, particularly when they allowed the salt and alcohol mixture to enter the pipe’s shank and/or when they left the mixture in the pipe for several days. Any pipe with significant monetary or sentimental value should be sent to a professional pipe repair person.

You might also want to give the stem draft-hole a thorough cleaning by periodically cleaning it with a scrubbing bristle pipecleaner dipped in alcohol or a “pipe sweetener”.

G.L. Pease also offers a more effective method:

“I reamed the pipe almost back to bare wood, pre-heated my electric oven to 220°F, and turned it off. After removing the pipe’s stem, I filled the bowl with activated charcoal pellets purchased from the local aquarium supply shop. Placing the pipe on a soft towel in the oven, I left it to sit while the oven cooled – about an hour… No perceptible difference was detected.

A couple of conversations with Trever Talbert, friend, pipesmith extraordinaire, and constant experimenter with briar, provided an important piece of information; briar heats very slowly. He explained that it could take several hours for a piece of briar’s temperature gradient to reach equilibrium with the ambient temperature. Clearly, my pipe’s short stint in the Sauna was insufficient to do the job.

I reheated the oven, this time setting the thermostat to 180°F, knowing from my tests that the temperature in my empty oven would vary between about 180°F and a bit over 200°F, well below the temperature at which the briar would scorch. Stemless and empty, I placed the bowl on its towel in the oven, on the upper rack, far away from the source of radiant heat, where it would be left to sit for three hours.

After removing the now hot pipe, I filled the bowl with the activated charcoal, and placed it back in the oven for an additional three hours. When the pipe was finally removed, and emptied of the charcoal, there was absolutely no trace of its prior scent … After allowing the pipe to cool overnight, the stem was refitted, the bowl filled with a favored blend, delicate enough to allow any vestigial flavors from the pipe to come through clearly. I sat down to experience the fruits of my labors. Success! Only at the very bottom of the bowl was a slight hint of the previous aroma, and this disappeared completely after a couple of smokes.”

Polishing stems

Vulcanite stems can oxidize, turning a disgusting brownish green color. This is one case where “an ounce of prevention” definitely pays off. Avoid exposing vulcanite stems to direct sunlight whenever possible, and wipe off your stems after each use. When oxidation does begin to form, it can often be removed with a mild abrasive, such as baking soda or toothpaste. If the oxidation is too severe for this treatment, jeweler’s rouge or an automobile rubbing compound will often do the trick. For truly stubborn stems more drastic measures may be required. An overnight soak in household bleach will turn your stems black again, but you should be careful to cover any stem logos with a blob of petroleum jelly to protect them prior to soaking, and you should be prepared to apply some elbow grease to polish the stem surface, which will be roughened by this treatment.

Professionals (and “serious amateurs”) remove oxidation with a buffing wheel loaded with Tripoli or some similar abrasive and then apply carnuba wax to protect the stem and bring out a high shine. If you wish to use a buffing rig, consult with someone experienced in such matters. It’s all too easy to burn a stem on a buffing wheel running at excessively high speed or, for that matter, to catapult a briar into your face.

Care for meerschaum pipes

First, and most importantly, don’t drop it. Meerschaum is fragile, and it is very unlikely that your pipe will survive a dive to the kitchen floor. Second, do not allow a cake to build in the bowl (firmly swabbing out all the ash residue with a bent pipe cleaner after each smoke should do the trick). If your pipe does start to build a cake, then ream it out very carefully. Third, if your pipe has a screw-in shank fitting (as most meerschaums do), twist the stem clockwise while removing it; twisting counter-clockwise could unscrew the fitting, and doing so repeatedly can strip the shank threads. Finally, meerschaum is a very absorbent, inorganic material, and does not require the same “rest period” that briars do. Still, I would at least allow the pipe to cool and dry completely before loading up and smoking it again.

Many meerschaum aficionados claim that to ensure proper “coloring” of the bowl you should never hold the bowl with your bare hands while smoking. This may be true, but I would much rather have a meerschaum with an unevenly colored bowl than to have to go through the hassle of holding my pipe by the stem or (horrors!) wearing kid gloves to smoke.

Should I store my pipe with a cleaner in the stem?

There are three schools of thought on this issue:

1) Those who do not leave a pipe cleaner in their pipe between smokes. These people believe that doing so prevent their pipe from drying quickly and or properly.

2) Those who do leave a pipe cleaner in their pipe between smokes. These people believe that doing so assists in the absorption of nasty stuff.

3) Those who compromise by leaving a pipe cleaner in their pipe for a short period (usually overnight), then removing it to allow the pipe to dry completely.

Personally, I belong to group #1 a about half the time. The rest of the time I’m a #3, unless I forget to remove the pipe cleaner, in which case I’m an accidental #2. Bottom line: It really doesn’t matter. Whatever works for you is fine.

Breaking In a New Pipe

See a great article by Fred Hanna called The Mysteries of the Briar Break-in Process.

Basic Repairs

 Airflow

Airflow issues are not exactly a repair, per se, but could perhaps be contributing to a pipe that is simply not smoking up to its potential. Rick Newcomb suggests that pipes with an open air flow smoke better. It is controversial, but bears exploration, as many pipe smokers are now sold on this concept. With it working for so many, it might just work for you and that problem pipe. Ken Campbell wrote an interesting article for The Pipe Collector called Airflow: The Key to Smoking Pleasure.

Fixing a loose stem

Even if you’re careful to never remove the stem from a hot pipe, you may occasionally be faced with a loose stem. Often this problem will fix itself with time, but if the stem is so loose that it is in danger of falling out, then something must be done. The safest bet is to take the pipe to a tobacconist or send it to a repairperson. These people will have a great deal of practice performing this task, and they will do it for a very modest fee. It is remarkably easy for an amateur to crack a shank while attempting this repair, as many of us can sadly attest.

Nevertheless, if you are determined to do this yourself, you must first determine what sort of stem you have. If the stem is lucite, the easiest fix is to apply a very thin layer of clear nail polish to the tenon, allow this to dry *completely*, and then carefully sand the tenon to fit. A vulcanite stem, on the other hand, is a bit more complicated, as you will need to heat the tenon and expand it in some way. There are a number of variations to this procedure, but the most common one is described below.

First, remove the stem from the pipe and insert a pipe cleaner into the stem so that it just reaches the end of the tenon (this is to ensure that you don’t collapse the air hole). Next, carefully heat the tenon over a match for about five seconds (the intent is to soften the vulcanite, not melt it). Then gently press the end of the tenon against a flat surface, keeping the tenon as perpendicular to the surface as possible, taking care not bend the tenon to one side or the other. After the stem has cooled, test fit it. If the stem is still too loose, repeat this procedure. If it is now too tight, then see “What should I do with a stem that’s too tight?” below. NOTE: It is *very* easy to ruin a perfectly good pipe with this technique, and I feel I should reiterate my earlier statement that this job is best undertaken by a “professional.”

A variation on the above that has less chance of bending or ruining the tenon is the following: Insert a tapered mandrel into the tenon. Apply heat to the mandrel (an alcohol flame is recommended). As the heat from the mandrel transfers to the tenon and softens it, move the mandrel further into the tenon. Repeat as necessary to get the desired expansion. Remove the mandrel and place tenon in cold water to set. Note that PIMOmakes a ‘Stem Tightening Kit’ that uses this principle.

A less radical (and *much* safer) procedure that has been recommended to me by several people is to simply rub the stem’s tenon against a block of beeswax until the tenon is well coated. Once this is complete, reinsert the stem. I am told that the joint will tighten after a smoke or two.

Another less radical approach to try if the beeswax method doesn’t work, is to simply heat the tenon and then allow it to cool. Very often the tenon will have expanded just enough to make a decent fit. Rather than an open flame, I suggest carefully using a heat gun, or a handheld hairdryer on high heat aimed at the tenon.

Fixing a stem that’s too tight

If the stem is still inserted in the pipe and is so difficult to remove that you fear your pipe may be damaged, then place the pipe in the freezer for several minutes. This works the vast majority of the time; however, if the stem still proves too difficult to remove, smoke the pipe, allow it to cool, and try to remove the stem again. If neither of these techniques work, then send the pipe to a reputable repairperson.

If you do manage to remove the stem, place some sort of dry lubricant, such as graphite (from a soft pencil) or wax, on the tenon and attempt to reinsert the stem. If this does not provide satisfactory results, you will need to remove a small amount of material from the tenon. Wrap some very fine (400 grit or so) sandpaper or some “O” or finer grade steel wool around the tenon and twist the stem gently. Work very slowly and carefully, and check the fit frequently until it is satisfactory.

Professional repair shops

U.S.

Jo Barnfield, manager of Monarch Pipe Company has been in operation since the 1930s. Monarch has made over 300,000 Aerosphere and Magic Inch Pipes, of every material size and shape. Jo can repair your pipe or completely recondition it. A complete menu of repair services is available. Contact information: Monarch Pipe Company, 115 East Second Street, Bristow, OK 74010. Pipe Repair Page

Ronni Bikacsan does excellent pipe repairs and alterations. Contact information: NightOwl Pipe Works, 720 Virginia Ave., Nashville TN 37216; phone 615-226-1756, or E-mail: mailto:info@nightowlpipeworks.com. NightOwl Pipe Works Website

Mary Ann Keller, owner of the American Smoking Pipe Repair Company has been in operation for over 14 years as a full-service repair company, offering Lucite and vulcanite stems, logos, bands, and reconditioning. Her turnaround time is 7-10 days. Contact information: American Smoking Pipe Repair Co., PO Box 153, Pocono Lake, PA 18347; E-mail mailto:prepair@localnet.com . website.

Randy Krempp does repairs and refurbishing. He can duplicate just about any stem and can repair even the ugliest breaks in a pipe bowl or shank. Contact information: Randy Krempp, 3717 Manor, Waco, TX 76706; 254-662-0562 (evening) and 254-399-2220 (day).

Frank Storm of Restoration Pipe Repair, P.O. Box 3, Stacy, MN 55079; 651-462-0187; E-mail mailto:frsams@frontiernet.net . Frank writes that he started to learn pipe repair in 1970 by working part time repairing pipes for the local Edwards pipe shop and other Edwards stores. In 1976, he purchased a tobacco store that was about to close down that contained the equipment that he had learned on, and he started doing his customers’ pipes. He currently has one national account, Savinelli, for whom he has been doing repairs for 20 years, 75-80 shops coast to coast that he repairs for, and another 80-plus individuals.

Tim West owner of J.H.Lowe, has been a Briar Pipemaker and a Pipe Repairman since 1975. Address – 1588 Grayling Ct., Columbus, OH 43235-5950; 614-761-3465; E-mail mailto:info@jhlowe.com . J.H.Lowe Main Website Repairs Page

George Dibos has collected, refurbished, and repaired briar pipes for over 30 years, and scaled up operations in 2007 to open Precision Smoking Pipe Rejuvenation and Repair, an all-new, full service, commercial-grade shop. Contact information: Precision Smoking Pipe R&R, P.O. Box 1142, 110 Second Avenue SW, Bowman, ND 58623; E-mail mailto:precisionpiperepair@gmail.com . Precision Smoking Pipe R&R Website

Baard Hansen Tabago Pipemaker of Bergen Norway. Repair and restoration [2] Mail box: Tabago pipemaker, PO Box 18, Birkebeinersenteret, N-5831 Bergen.Phone: +47 41 02 08 80 E-mail Website

Smokers’ Haven, 2106 N. High St., Columbus, OH (614-299-2442) Website

Wall’s Pipe Repair, 12 S. Main St., Mansfield, OH (419-522-6218)

E Pipe Repairs, 144 Linebrook Road, Ipswich, Ma. 01938. E-mail, Website

Norwood’s Pipe Repair, 1160 Norwood Lane, Clifton, Tennessee 38425, (731) 925-1836. E-mail, Website Floyd Norwood is the repairman of choice for numerous pipe and tobacco shops throughout the U.S. and is known for his quality work, fast turn around time and prices that are often 1/3 that of his competitors. Floyd also crafts quality freehand pipes as a hobby which can be purchased at his website.

Scott Bundy, E-mail, Website

Walker Briar Works, 6580 Peckins Lane, Manchester, MI 48158. Telephone: 734-216-6698. Dave Wolff has been restoring and repairing pipes for more than 40 years. He sells a Vulcanite Stem Restoration Kit (which works) on his website as well as hand finished Lucite and Vulcanite ‘Forever’ Stems for Corn Cob Pipes. E-mail, Website

Before-n-After-Pipes, Pipe repairs and services,1178 phillips suite 420,Montreal,Quebec 514-554-1756 E-mail Website

Shane Slayton – 73 Hill Top Church Rd. Glenwood, AR 71943 – Repairs broken tenons at a ridiculously low price. For the most part a hobbyist, who learned out of necessity, his work is a great alternative to replacement stems. Usually around 5 bucks. scorpio2billion@yahoo.com

Canada

Blatter & Blatter – 375 President Kennedy ave., Montreal Quebec H3A 0B3. Tel: 514-845-8028: In business since 1907, make their own tobacco blends & pipes, and are the only pipe-oriented tobacconist in Montreal. http://www.blatterpipes.com/

The information presented here was originally formed from the excellent Alt.Smokers.Pipes FAQ

Selecting your first pipe

When selecting your first pipe, the best advice to follow is “Pick one you like.” However, given the considerable range of materials, prices and designs, more in-depth guidance follows.

While you’re buying the pipe, pick up a package of pipe cleaners (the soft, cotton ones are best for most purposes), and a cheap “pipe tool” or “tamper”; you’ll need them.

If you are trying to switch to pipes and give up cigarettes check out this excellent article by Steve Fallon: Good-Bye Cigarettes, Hello Pipe!

Material

Castello Old Antiquari GG pipe made of briar wood, courtesy of pipes2smoke.com

For your first pipe, you’d do well to select one made of briar, the pipe-making material most commonly used due to its durability, heat resistance, and pleasing appearance. Other materials such as clay, meerschaum and porcelain are also used to make pipes, but these materials are fragile and lack the smoking characteristics and ease of use of briar. Corncob pipes are the least expensive option for a first pipe, and they are a viable alternative to briar; however, they often have very small bowls—the part of the pipe that holds the tobacco—and brittle plastic stems that are quite easy to bite through.

Most briar pipes have stems made of vulcanite (rubber) or lucite (acrylic); either material works fine, and stem material is purely a matter of personal choice. Vulcanite is softer, which many find more comfortable, but lucite is more durable and resists oxidation.

See Also: Materials and Construction and What Makes a Good Briar Pipe by R.D. Field

Shape and size

The shape of a pipe is entirely a matter of personal taste. Many pipe smokers prefer pipes that are bent, as they “hang” better, putting less strain on the teeth and jaw. Others prefer straight-stemmed pipes, predominately for aesthetic reasons and that it keeps the smoke out of the eyes, but also because it is easier to insert a pipe cleaner to absorb the condensate that occasionally collects in the shank while smoking. For a detailed study of pipe shapes and pipe anatomy, see Materials and Construction or the OoOPS Guide to Identifying Pipes.

In terms of size, you’ll probably want to avoid very small pipes, as they tend to smoke hot, and very large ones, as they are often harder for a novice to keep lit and may hold too much tobacco to finish comfortably, initially.

Price

Pipes range in price from a couple of dollars to several thousand; it is recommended that you spend a modest amount for your first pipe. By purchasing a moderately-priced pipe, you will not be out a large sum if you determine that pipe smoking isn’t for you. Try not to purchase one of those pipes you may find in plastic bubble packaging at your local discount store if you can avoid it; instead, seek out a good tobacconist and ask for his or her recommendation. Not only will this give you a broader selection from which to choose, but the tobacconist is likely to have some good advice on how to get started. Don’t be afraid to tell the shop owner that you’re a novice. He or she will figure this out pretty quickly on their own anyway, and it is in their own best interest to help you select a pipe and tobacco that they think you’ll enjoy. If you don’t know where to find a reputable tobacconist, check the Pipes Digest Resource Guide, the ASP Home Page or ask the newsgroup for a recommendation.

Basket pipes

A reasonable quality “basket” pipe (so-called because most tobacconists keep their lower-priced, “no-name” pipes in an open basket near the sales counter) can be had for as little as $15, and many name-brand manufacturers produce pipes in the $35-60 range.

Seconds

A true “second” is a pipe that has some kind of flaw (which is almost always cosmetic in nature) and is therefore not deemed worthy to carry the manufacturer’s usual brand name. Typically, such pipes are simply stamped “Imported Briar” or something similar; however, some manufacturers have distinctive stampings for their cosmetically-challenged pipes (such as Peterson’s “Irish Seconds”). You can find some very good pipes at a reduced price because they have surface flaws—pits, putty “fills” in the briar, imperfect carving, etc.—that do not affect the way they smoke at all. Many of the inexpensive pipes that you will find at your tobacconist (to include “basket” pipes and most “house brands”) are “seconds” of one sort or another.

Estate pipes

In the pipe smoking community, “estate” is a euphemism for “used.” By buying an estate pipe, it is possible to get a high quality pipe for much less than it would cost new. (It is also possible to buy a piece of junk at a greatly inflated price, so caveat emptor applies.) While these pipes are usually thoroughly cleaned before they are sold, some people are appalled at the idea of smoking a pipe that was smoked by someone else. It should be noted that the previous owner’s smoking habits will have at least a minor affect on the taste the pipe will impart to tobacco.

Filters

You should not be inhaling smoke when enjoying your pipe, so a filter is, in the opinion of many, superfluous. One major drawback to most filtering systems is that they tend to affect the taste of the tobacco—for the worse—if not kept meticulously clean. With that said, in some parts of the world, particularly Central Europe, pipe filters are quite common. Many of the pipes sold there have a cavity in the shank—that part of the pipe that connects the bowl to the stem—designed to accommodate 9mm filters. There is absolutely nothing wrong with using a filter in your pipe. If you prefer filters, then by all means use them. Nevertheless, you don’t need them.

Selecting your first tobacco

As with selecting your first pipe, “Pick one you like”. If you have had experience with only cigarettes and cigars, you’re in for a real treat. The variety of pipe tobaccos is positively staggering, and the flavor of a blend is influenced not only by its component tobaccos, but also by myriad other factors such as the style of cut and the pipe used to smoke it. The only way to determine which sort of tobacco is right for you is to try a number of very different blends to decide which general type you like, and then proceed from there. Some of us are constantly searching for the perfect blend, affectionately known as “The Holy Grail.”

Varieties

“Drugstore” Tobaccos

Generally, you will be better off purchasing your tobacco from a tobacconist. Many of the commonly available blends found in discount stores or supermarkets are made from lower-quality tobacco, and the additives with which they are laced for preservation and “taste enhancement” alter the way a tobacco smokes, usually for the worse. Of course, there is no harm in sampling these tobaccos; you may discover that one such blend is just your cup of tea. Most “drugstore blends” have been around for decades, so they must have something going for them.

If you live in an area where there are no tobacconists, you can always shop online, or you might try the drugstore-supermarket brands, Captain Black (Americas no. 1 selling pipe tobacco) which is very mild, and flavorful, or Borkum Riff, a bit hotter and wetter smoking. Granted, they may not satisfy the connoisseur’s refined tastes. They are tobacco for the masses, but they aren’t too bad. The large tins are usually fresh. The small pouches may not be.

Faux Pipe Tobaccos (a relative term)

This is a new variety of “pipe” tobacco which has emerged recently (2009) in America, and posibly other countries. It is actually roll-your-own cigarette tobacco, which is being marketed as Premium Pipe Tobacco, to avoid the ridiculously, high taxes and regulatory requirements on cigarette tobacco. In a pipe it’s not so good, I think, compared to real pipe tobacco. Oddly enough, though, it seems to work fine in cigarettes. On the other hand, it is tobacco which can be smoked in a pipe, and it is you who decides, good or bad, not me or the government.

Aromatics vs. non-aromatics

These are the two broadest subdivisions of pipe tobaccos. As a general rule, most beginning smokers tend to go for an “aromatic” tobacco, which has been “cased” or “topped” with flavorings such as vanilla, cherry, etc., while those converting from cigars or cigarettes often prefer an “non-aromatic” or “natural” tobacco.

Aromatics

A good aromatic tobacco is lightly topped with a natural flavoring. Aromatics tend to be more moist than non-aromatics, which can lead to problems smoking them. These problems can be avoided if care is taken in the preparation of the tobacco and in the pack of the pipe.

Non-aromatics

These are tobaccos that contain no flavored additives; in fact, a good non-aromatic blend will contain no additives whatsoever, other than perhaps a bit of water.

Many well-meaning tobacconists do a disservice to the novice by suggesting a “mild” tobacco, especially an aromatic tobacco, to start with. Until the smoker is used to the mechanics of smoking a pipe, and has cultivated a sense for the flavors and aromas s/he will be experiencing, their sensory response is not dramatic. If they start with a mild tobacco, they will likely puff like a locomotive to attempt to get something out of it that resembles flavor, not to mention the difficulty they may have in keeping a pipe lit. If the tobacco is a goopy aromatic, the problem is magnified.

G. L. Pease recommendation on beginner’s tobacco

“I generally recommend a full flavored, but not strong tobacco to the beginner. They’ll be much more likely to get some flavor from their early experiences, and it will be much easier, then, for them to apprehend the idea of ‘slowing down,’ which is crucial to a great smoke. Once they’ve learned some of the mechanics of pipe smoking, and their senses have become accustomed to some of the myriad flavors tobaccos can present, they are better armed to move into more subtle, or ‘mild’ blends. For the beginner, ‘mild’ tobaccos are generally far from mild!”

From the G. L. Pease FAQ, and used by permission.

Storage

The moisture content of a tobacco affects the way it smokes and tastes; a tobacco that is too moist or too dry will not offer a pleasing smoke. One way to determine if your tobacco has the proper level of moisture is the “pinch test.” Take a pinch of your tobacco and squeeze it tightly for a couple of seconds, then release it. If it immediately starts to “unravel,” your tobacco is in good shape. If it stays in a tight clump, it is too wet. If it crumbles, it is too dry.

Tobacco purchased in tins should retain its moisture for several weeks after opening. Blends purchased in “bulk,” or tinned tobaccos that are to be stored for many weeks or months after opening should be stored in some type of container. Standard resealable zipper bags are not airtight, and your tobacco will dry out over time if they are used for storage. Similar bags designed for use in the freezer are better, but still aren’t completely satisfactory for anything other than relatively short term storage. Some people advocate the use of multiple bags in a Tupperware container, “Mason” jars, or heat-sealed, vacuum-pack bags. All of these methods are satisfactory; however, I prefer to use bail-top jars with rubber gaskets.

If your tobacco is too moist, you can leave the container open slightly while monitoring it closely. If your tobacco has dried out, it is usually possible to revive it. (There is a point beyond which no amount of re-moistening is going to restore the flavor of a tobacco, but that time span is generally measured in months or years.) Some advocate placing a slice of apple or potato in the tobacco container. While that may introduce moisture, it will also introduce mold and other impurities. Unlike cheese, the flavor of tobacco is not improved by mold, and once your container has been so contaminated, it is almost impossible to completely rid it of the mold spores that will attempt to infest any tobacco placed in that container in the future. A much safer method is to spray a tiny amount of distilled water into the container and reseal it for a day or two, or purchase a ceramic humidifying disk from your tobacconist and place it in the storage container.

Smoking basics

["Breaking in" your pipe

The process of "breaking in" a pipe serves two functions. First, any saps, resins, acids, stains, demons, or other nasty things that have remained in the briar are driven out. Second, and most importantly, a "cake"--the layer of charred residue that builds up inside the bowl as tobacco is smoked in it--is developed. This cake protects the bowl of the pipe from the heat of burning tobacco and prevents it from "burning out." It should be noted that most of the information in this section applies to briar pipes only. Most other pipes require no break in period, or at most a very brief one. Additionally, one should not allow a cake to build up in a meerschaum or clay, as this could cause the bowl to crack.

It is important to smoke a new pipe slowly, to avoid damaging the naked briar. Some recommend that a new pipe be filled only one-third to one-half full for the first several smokes, after which the bowl can be filled a little more with each smoke. To be honest, this procedure is not necessary, but I always recommend it--and usually practice it--because it is all too easy to damage a new pipe through carelessness. Don't try to rush the break-in period, and don't be overly concerned if a new pipe has a bitter taste. Some pipes break in easier than others, and it is not uncommon for a pipe that is very difficult to break in to mature into a great smoker.

Some pipes are sold with a bowl coating designed to protect the briar until a cake is built up (sometimes such bowls are called "pre-carbonized"). Many pipes, however, are not so treated. While a "naked" bowl is not likely to be damaged so long as the pipe is smoked slowly, many people advocate preparing the bowl interior of a new pipe. Some recommend that the inside of the bowl be dampened with water to protect the briar, while others recommend honey, or a mixture of honey and water. Honey may help a cake form more quickly, but after trying all of these techniques I find that these days I tend to use nothing at all.

Finally, try not to smoke a new pipe outdoors if you can possibly avoid it. Even a gentle breeze will cause the pipe to burn much hotter than it would indoors, which can irreparably damage a briar that is not protected by a cake. I've never had a problem smoking my pipes outdoors (after they've been broken in, of course), but if you're concerned about possible damage, you can purchase wind caps from your tobacconist which will shield the burning tobacco from the effects of wind.

Fred Hanna has written an excellent article on this subject that we highly recommend called The Mysteries of the Briar Break-in Process.

"Packing" your pipe

A pipe must be packed properly to ensure a good smoke; unfortunately, learning to do this takes time and practice. In fact, the art of packing a pipe is the most difficult task associated with pipe smoking, and this can be very frustrating for the beginner. I suspect that most people who have given up on trying to learn to smoke a pipe did so primarily because they couldn't master packing a bowl quickly enough to suit them.

The most common technique for packing a pipe is the "three layer" method. The objective is to end up with a bowl that is evenly packed from top to bottom; this is done by packing each layer progressively tighter. Trickle tobacco into the bowl until it is slightly overfull, then press very lightly with your finger until the bowl appears half full. Fill the pipe again and press down until the pipe is 2/3 to 3/4 full. Finally, overfill the pipe and press the top layer down fairly firmly. When finished the tobacco should feel "springy" to the touch. If it has no give at all, it's packed too tight. If a touch leaves an indentation, it is packed too loosely. Finally, test the "draw" by sucking air through the unlit pipe; the resistance should be about like that felt when sipping a soft drink through a straw. If the draw doesn't feel right, then empty the bowl and start over. A slightly different touch must be used depending on the size of the bowl and the cut and moisture level of the tobacco, but this will become second nature with experience. In fact, you will undoubtedly develop your own packing techniques with time, and you will find yourself loading your pipe without even thinking about it.

Frequently, the tiny smoke hole in the tobacco chamber may become clogged with tobacco, when filling and packing the bowl. It is not necessary to empty the bowl to correct this problem. Just remove the tip, and then clear the smoke hole with the reamer tool, a thin steel rod.

If you find yourself frustrated by the fact that you simply can't get the feel for packing your pipe, you might want to try a method suggested by Mike Butera. Mike recommends chopping the tobacco, reducing the ribbons into rectangles or squares about 1/4" long. The bowl is then packed as described above. Some people have found that this method can make the task of packing a bowl much easier.

A recent pipe-packing technique known as "The Frank Method" has grown in favor, presented at the 2004 Chicagoland Pipe Show. See the following links: New York Pipe Club's presentation or Jim Murray's site. Here's a set of YouTube videos posted by Herr Frank demonstrating his pipe filling method Frank Method.

Lighting your pipe

Barring such bizarre contraptions as parabolic mirrors, lasers, and miniature blowtorches, there are three ways to light your pipe: with a match, with a butane lighter, or with a fluid lighter (e.g. a "Zippo").

The wooden match is the traditional pipe lighting device. Strike the match and hold it for a second or two while the sulfur burns off. Bring the match to the tobacco surface and, while puffing gently, move the match around the tobacco in a slow, even circle.

Butane lighters are more convenient than matches, and, unlike fluid lighters, there is less risk of imparting an unpleasant taste to your tobacco. If you wish to use a butane lighter, then purchase one that is designed for pipes. Such lighters have an angled gas outlet that makes it easier to direct the flame into the bowl while avoiding burned fingers.

Fluid lighters share the convenience feature of butane, and they provide the only truly reliable means of lighting a pipe in a stiff wind. Zippo makes a lighter designed for pipes that has a circular hole in the chimney which is placed over the bowl while the flame is "sucked" into the tobacco. Other types of fluid lighters may be used as well, but their broad flame makes it all too easy to char the rim of the pipe bowl. The primary disadvantage to fluid lighters is that they can impart a slight taste to the tobacco. Some swear that this can be prevented if one merely waits a few seconds after igniting the lighter before lighting the tobacco. I can still taste (smell?) the lighter fluid, however, and I prefer my tobacco sans naphtha.

[Keeping your pipe lit

Don't be overly concerned if you have difficulty keeping your pipe lit at first. It is not unusual for even experienced smokers to have to re-light several times, especially toward the bottom of the bowl. Try to relax and enjoy yourself--that is the whole point, after all. You'll find it much easier to keep your pipe lit with practice.

Charring Light

The best way to keep your pipe lit is to light it correctly at the beginning. Most people light their pipe twice. Light the pipe as described above and puff a half dozen times or so. Then tamp the surface of the tobacco down with your pipe tool and re-light. The first lighting, often called the "charring light" or "false light," will char the top of the tobacco and prepare this surface for the second lighting which will, with practice, take you through most of the bowl.

Tamping

While smoking, ash residue will form at the top of the tobacco. This residue should be gently tamped down periodically during the course of a smoke and prior to re-lighting. This tamping serves to keep the tobacco--which expands as it burns--properly packed and promotes even burning. If the pipe has an especially tall bowl, the ash may sometimes become so thick that it is difficult to re-light the tobacco below it. If this occurs, loosen the ash gently with your pipe tool, dump the ash, tamp, and re-light.

Clogs

Sometimes while smoking, the tiny smoke hole in the tobacco chamber may become clogged with tobacco, especially after tamping, and even though you can draw on the pipe, you can't get much smoke. Assuming there is tobacco remaining to be smoked, just remove the tip, and then clear the smoke hole with the reamer tool, a thin steel rod, and then relight the pipe.

Smoking Pace

The pace at which you smoke (i.e. the rhythm at which you puff your pipe) is very important. With practice and experimentation you will achieve the perfect pace for you. The idea is to puff frequently enough to keep the tobacco lit, but not so frequently as to cause the pipe to burn too hot, which contributes to tongue bite and may damage your pipe. If you can't hold the bowl of your pipe comfortably in your hand, or if you can't hold the side of the bowl against your face for more than a few seconds, then you're smoking too fast. If this happens, set the pipe down for a few minutes to cool, then re-light and start again. Someone once described the perfect smoking pace as one where the pipe is always on the verge of going out.

Basic pipe maintenance

Cleaning

Your pipe should be cleaned after each smoke. To do this, first let the pipe cool and then scoop or dump out any ash and "dottle" (unburned tobacco that sometimes remains in the bottom of the bowl). Do not bang the pipe against a hard surface, as this may result in a cracked shank or broken stem. Believe me, I lost a whole pipe after I did this on a rail over a creek. The pipe broke in half, fell in and sailed down the creek and out into a nearby river. Instead of using brute force, buy a pipe nail; they cost $1-$2 and you can use the long end to scoop the tobacco out of the pipe, and afterwards, blow through the empty pipe to remove any remaining dottle. Once the bowl is empty, run a pipe cleaner through the stem until it just enters the bowl and remove it. Repeat with additional cleaners until they come out clean (many people, myself included, will use both ends of a pipe cleaner before switching to a new one). Finally, take one of the used cleaners, bend it into a "U" shape, and wipe out the ash clinging to the sides of the bowl. [NOTE: Some people prefer to leave the ash in the bowl, believing that it promotes a good cake. If you like, try both ways and see what works best for you.] Set the pipe aside to dry completely. *Ideally*, the pipe should be allowed to “rest” for around 48 hours before smoking it again, but you might have to forgo this luxury until you have enough pipes to do so.

Periodically, you’ll want to clean your pipe a bit more thoroughly. In addition to the steps above, you’ll also want to carefully remove the stem from the shank and wipe out the “gunk” that collects in the mortise; a cotton swab (e.g. a “Q-tip”) works well for this task. Some people also advocate periodic cleaning of the stem and shank with pipe cleaners soaked in alcohol (preferably some form of grain alcohol), particularly if the pipe begins to taste a bit musty or sour. Do not, however, get alcohol anywhere near the bowl of a meerschaum pipe.

CAUTION! PAY ATTENTION HERE!! Never, ever, ever take the stem out of a pipe while it is still hot. Allow the pipe to cool for at least an hour before attempting to remove the stem. [I'm of the opinion that you should let the pipe dry completely before removing the stem, as well.] Repeatedly removing the stem from a hot pipe will result in a loose stem at best, and you may even end up with a broken tenon or a cracked shank. With that said, there are pipes that are designed to have their stem removed while still hot. This sort of stem is called a “military bit” or an “army mount,” since pipes such as these were originally designed for military men (I’m not being non-PC; there simply weren’t any military women in those days), who might have needed to stow their pipes on short notice. The stem’s tenon on such a pipe is tapered to provide a friction fit, and the shank is almost always reinforced with a metal “cup” or band.

See Also: Pipe care/cleaning

“Tongue bite”

“Tongue bite,” an intense burning sensation of the tongue, is an unpleasant side effect often experienced by the new pipe smoker (it is also experienced by non-newbies who take up the pipe again after a period of abstinence). While irritating, it will usually go away after a week or so of smoking. If you experience this problem for an extended period, then you may be smoking a tobacco that’s too moist, you may have failed to pack the bowl properly, or you’re smoking too fast. Some tongue bite sufferers have also experienced relief by using an oral rinse sold under the name “Biotene.” It works for some; you might want to try it. Others have suggested that red wine may also ease the sufferer’s symptoms and many have reported their success with this method.

“Gurgling”

This is caused by moisture collecting in the bottom of the bowl and/or in the shank or stem. Possible causes of “gurgle” are:

The pipe has design problems

Some pipe designs or implementations tend to cause gurgling, or a wetter than average smoke. In most cases this is caused by an abrupt interruption of the airflow, which will cause condensation to form as the heated smoke is restricted and then expands. A smooth continuous air flow is ideal. Interruptions in this airflow can be caused by several different issues. Some smokers feel it is critical that the stem’s tenon should meet the bottom of the mortise in the shank. Others do not feel this is critical. This fit is often neglected in factory-made pipes. Another cause might be the air hole in the stem and shank are not perfectly aligned, often found on bent pipes. If this is the case, a pipe cleaner might also catch abruptly at the junction of shank and stem. An interruption can also be caused if the air way is not carefully “funneled” between the rounder, larger-diameter hole at the tenon side of the stem and the flatter, wider slot and the bit. A more open draw facilitated by a larger air hole in the shank and stem is also considered an advantage by many smokers, and not by others. Regardless of the particulars, it seems clear that pipe mechanics play a part in the tendency for a particular smoker to experience problems with a particular pipe and tobacco combination.

Smoking too fast

Water vapor is a by-product of combustion, and rapid smoking will produce large amounts of it, which will then condense in the shank and stem.

Smoking a pipe that is not yet broken-in

I’m not certain if this occurs because the briar has not dried completely, because there is no cake, or “just because.” Still, a new pipe will often smoke wet.

Smoking a tobacco that is too moist

This is self explanatory. In addition, some tobaccos–particularly aromatics–tend to leave more liquid residue than others.

Smoking a tobacco with too much humectant

Some tobaccos contain large amounts of Propylene Glycol or other additives that may create grease and cause gurgling.

Saliva in the pipe

Salivation is a normal response to smoking, and this saliva can collect in the stem. Keep your tongue away from the mouthpiece opening, and try to keep your mouth as dry as possible.

If your pipe begins to gurgle while smoking, run a pipe cleaner down the stem to absorb the moisture. This can be a bit tricky with some bent pipes, but it’s usually possible if you put a small bend in the end of the cleaner and rotate it “just right.”

Sandblasted briar (smooth top). A beautiful Freehand, by Rad Davis

[edit] Materials and Construction

The material and shape of a pipe has a profound influence upon the aesthetics and smoking qualities. Tobacco pipes come in many shapes and styles. For an excellent overview of these shapes see Pipe Shapes by Bill Burney.

[edit] Parts Nomenclature

Bill Burney and A.S.P. have kindly permitted us to use the A.S.P. Pipe Parts Charts showing the parts and nomenclature of the pipe. :

A.S.P. Pipe Parts Charts, by Bill Burney, Copyright 2003-2011 (used by permission; all rights reserved)

Page 1, Overview (click image for full size view)	Page 2, Mechanics (click image for full size view)
Page 3, Stems (click image for full size view)	Page 4, Mortise Fit (click image for full size view)

The basis for this section is from the Wikipedia entry Smoking Pipe (tobacco).

A Comprehensive list of Pipe maker material and suppliers can be found here: Materials and Supplies

[edit] Briar

Castello Old Antiquari GG, courtesy of pipes2smoke.com

The majority of pipes sold today, whether hand made or machine made, are fashioned from briar. Briar is a particularly good wood for pipe making for a number of reasons. The first and most important is its natural resistance to fire. The second is its inherent ability to absorb moisture. The burl absorbs water in nature to supply the tree in the dry times and likewise will absorb the moisture that is a byproduct of combustion. Briar is cut from the root burl of the heath tree (Erica arborea), which is native to the rocky and sandy soils of the Mediterranean region. Briar burls are cut into two types of blocks; ebauchon and plateaux. Ebauchon is taken from the heart of the burl while plateaux is taken from the outer part of the burl. While both types of blocks can produce pipes of the highest quality, most artisan pipe makers prefer to use plateaux because of its superior graining.

• Characteristics Of Briar is a very thorough and interesting research paper in .pdf format by G. Tsoumis, N. Kezos, I Fanariotou, E. Voulgaridis, and C. Passialis documenting the various characteristics of briar.
• See, My Visit to A Briar Sawmill, What Makes a Good Briar Pipe, The Art of Sandblasting, and Curing all excellent articles by R.D. Field. Also see 100 Year Old Briar?. Also Trever Talbert’s excellent blog posts[1] Sandblasting – Circles and Shanks and How to Read your Sandblast.

• R.C. Hamlin has also written an interesting article on this subject called The Briar Factor.
• So you think you’re a “Briar Afficionado”? This is a short but extremely informative article by Rainer Barbi available here: The Briar Saga Page 1 & The Briar Saga Page 2.

[edit] Alternative Woods Used For Pipe making

Although briar pipes are by far the most popular, various other woods are also used by pipe makers. See Alternative Woods Used For Pipe making for a list of the many wood types and examples of pipes made with these woods. Many thanks to pipe maker Elie for suggesting this section. Also see Pipes in Other Woods an article written for The Collector by Tim Fuller. Also see Vecchie tradizioni contadine

Also see Other Materials section in, in the “Stummels” section in “Pipe Making”

[edit] Meerschaum

Meerschaum Pipes

Meerschaum (hydrated magnesium silicate), a mineral found in small shallow deposits mainly around the city of Eskişehir in central Turkey, is prized for its plasticity which allows it to be carved into many decorative and figural shapes. It was used as early as the 17th century in Turkey in the production of various utilitarian articles, but the first use as a pipe was not earlier than, according to translated documents, about 1725-1750. Along with clay, meerschaum represented the other common medium for pipes before the introduction of briar as the material of choice in the mid-19th century. See Antique Meerschaum Pipes and Materiali Fossili, Schiuma di mare

The word “meerschaum” means “sea foam” in German, alluding to its natural white color and its surprisingly low weight. Meerschaum is a very porous mineral that absorbs elements of the tobacco during the smoking process, and gradually changes color to a golden brown. Old, well-smoked meerschaum pipes are prized for their distinctive coloring.

In selecting a meerschaum pipe it is advisable to determine if the pipe is indeed carved from a block of meerschaum, and is not made from meerschaum dust collected after carving and mixed with an emulsifier then pressed into a pipe shape. These products are not absorbent, do not color, and lack the smoking quality of the block carved pipe. It is not always obvious. Some collectors believe that some pipes marked “solid block meerschaum” may not be genuine. With no uniform grading authority, it is difficult to be sure in the case of an unknown maker, unless you are purchasing it from a trusted, well informed tobacconist. Be wary of inexpensive pipes from untrusted sources. Also look for the quality of the carving. Better carvers are unlikely to waste time carving composite meerschaum.

[edit] Clay

Fox & Grapes, Pollock Clay Pipes

Clay in this case is almost always a very fine white clay. Low-quality “clay” pipes are actually made from porcelain forming techniques known as slip, and poured into a mold. These are porous, of very low quality, and impart unwanted flavors to a smoke. Top-notch clays, on the other hand are made in a labor-intensive process that requires beating all air out of the clay, hand-rolling each pipe before molding it, piercing with a fine wire, and careful firing. Traditionally, clay pipes are unglazed. Clays burn “hot” in comparison to other types of pipes, so they are often difficult for most pipe-smokers to use. Their proponents claim that, unlike other materials, a well-made clay pipe gives a “pure” smoke, with no flavor addition from the pipe bowl. In addition to aficionados, reproductions of historical clay styles are used by some Historical re-enactors. Clay pipes were once considered disposable items and the large quantities discarded in the past are often used as an aid in dating by industrial archaeologists.

For additional information see, A Short History Of Clay Pipes, by Heather Coleman

An excellent article from the Colonial Williamsburg Journal entitled “Hunting for a Little Ladle“, Tobacco Pipes by Ivor NoÔl Hume

[edit] Calabash

Calabash Gourd Pipe With Meerschaum Bowl Insert & Removable Bamboo Stem Extension Courtesy of Frank

Calabash gourds (usually with meerschaum or porcelain bowls set inside them) have long made prized pipes, but they are labour-intensive and nowadays quite expensive. Because of this expense, pipes with bodies made of wood (usually mahogany) instead of gourd, but the same classic shape are sold as calabashes. Both wood and gourd pipes are functionally the same. They both have an air chamber beneath the bowl which serves to cool, dry, and mellow the smoke. There are also briar pipes being sold as calabashes. These typically do not have an air chamber and are named only because of their external shape.

The construction of a calabash pipe generally consists of a downward curve that ends with an upcurve where the bowl sits. This low center of gravity allows for the user to easily hold the pipe by the mouth alone, leaving his hands free. This advantage was often used by actors who wanted to depict their character smoking while permitting them to do other business simultaneously. That is why the character Sherlock Holmes, who never used this kind of pipe in the stories, is stereotypically depicted as favoring it because early dramatic productions, especially those starring William Gillette and Basil Rathbone, made this artistic decision. In fact, Holmes, who preferred very harsh tobacco, would probably have disliked the calabash because of the above-mentioned mellowing effect.

Gourds specifically intended for pipemaking are usually “hand trained” while they are still green & growing. Every few days, after the fruit has begun to develop, the grower will bend the “neck” of the gourd, until it has formed into a near semi-circle. These are mainly grown in South Africa.

Family:  Cucurbitaceae (koo-ker-bih-TAY-see-ay);
Genus:   Lagenaria (lag-en-AR-ee-uh);
Species: Siceraria (sy-ker-AR-ee-uh);
Cultivar: Dipper(?)

Calabash Interpretations: Also popular with some collectors are Calabash shaped briar pipes, or Calabash interpretations. Fred Heim has written an interesting article on collecting these called Calabash, Calabash, Wherefore Art Thou Calabash?, The Genesis of a Collecting Motif By Fred Heim, with photography by Joe Harb.

[edit] Corncob

Corncob Pipes

Gen. MacArthur

On the other end of the scale, “corncob” pipes made from maize cobs are cheap and effective, even if some regard them as inelegant. The cobs are first dried for two years. Then they are hollowed out to make a bowl shape. The bowls are dipped in a plaster-based mixture and varnished or lacquered on the outside. Shanks made from pine wood are then inserted into the bowls. The first and largest manufacturer of corncob pipes is Missouri Meerschaum, located in Washington, Missouri in the United States.[2]. Missouri Meerschaum has produced the pipes since 1869. General Douglas MacArthur and George Lincoln Rockwell were perhaps the most famous smokers of this type of pipe, along with the cartoon characters Popeye and Frosty the Snowman.

Corncob pipes remain popular today because they are inexpensive and require no “break-in” period like briar pipes. For these two reasons, corncob pipes are often recommended as a “Beginners pipe.” But, their enjoyment is by no means limited to beginners. Corncob pipes are equally valued by both learners, and experienced smokers who simply desire a cool, clean smoke. Pipe smokers who wish to sample a wide variety of different tobaccos and blends also might keep a stock of corncobs on hand to permit them to try new flavors without “carryover” from an already-used pipe, or to keep a potentially bad tasting tobacco from adding its flavor to a more expensive or favored pipe.

For great additional information see The Complete Corncob primer and Missouri Meerschaum Corncob Buying Guide courtesy of John Patton (tiltjlp).

[edit] Metal Pipes

Image Courtesy Tony Pringle of Smoking Metal

Vintage Falcon Shillelagh Pipe (Manufactured Ca. 1968)
Image Courtesy K. A. Worth

An excellent website devoted to metal pipes: Smoking Metal.
Includes various Falcon aluminum-stem pipes, plus Kirsten, Yello Bole, Dr. Grabow (Viking) and many others.

An interesting book on the subject: Back From The Ashes, Uncovering The Lost History Of G. L. Hunt and the Falcon Pipe, by K. A. Worth ~ Winner, 2008 Illinois Historical Society Book Award. Available from the author: Worthy Works Press and at Amazon: Amazon.com. For more info. see Books/Publications page…

Build your own custom Kirsten Metal Pipe at Kirsten Pipe Company

Kirsten Pipe Company – An article by Dave Whitney

Metal pipes often incorporate means of trapping moisture that can cool the smoke before it reaches the mouth. Some say this can reduce the “Bite” and make smoking more enjoyable. Kirsten and Falcon pipes are still in production and deliver an excellent smoke. Beware though, there are many different metal pipes out there, of varing styles and brands, and collecting them can be very addictive. —

[edit] the pipe (pyrolytic graphite/phenolic resin)

Billiard Maroon the pipe with white Fashion Stripes, courtesy Billie W. Taylor II, Ph.D

In 1963, Super-Temp Corporation began making plastic pipes with pyrolytic graphite bowl liners. They were called the pipe. In 1965, Super-Temp contracted to market their unique pipes through Venturi, Inc., the company which sold Tar Gard cigarette filters. Colors and stripes began to be offered circa 1967. About 1970, THE SMOKEpipes were added to the line – they were non-traditional shapes with a less expensive bowl liner. Venturi pipes were added around 1972 – they had no liner in the bowls at all. The pipes were out of production by 1975.

See the excellent the pipe website by Billie W. Taylor II, Ph.D